Seidel Crust Double Shot

Crust Double Shot undergoes the same combination tanning process as all Double Shot variants. The leather begins with chrome tanning for flexibility and resilience, then receives additional treatment with vegetable extracts. This combination produces leather that exhibits both the softness associated with chrome tanning and the structure and aging characteristics of vegetable-tanned leather. The process stops before dyeing, leaving the leather in its natural post-tannage state.

Following tanning, the undyed crust receives Seidel's signature hot-stuffing treatment. Tanners employ heat to saturate the leather with a blend of natural waxes, tallows, and oils. This infusion occurs through tumbling in heated barrels without water or emulsifiers, using very hot air along with previously melted tallows and waxes.

The multiple hot wax application penetrates the leather thoroughly to its core while the material remains in its natural state. As the leather becomes saturated, the blend of unrefined fats and oils permeates throughout, keeping it soft and supple while providing enhanced water resistance. The high concentration of oils and waxes creates the characteristic pullup effect and may cause leather bloom, a cloudy or hazy appearance as oils surface.

Crust Double Shot is produced in the same weight specifications as dyed variants. For boot manufacturing, the leather typically measures 7 ounces in weight, approximately 2.8mm in thickness. The material maintains full-grain construction, preserving the natural surface texture of the hide without correction or buffing.

The leather exhibits a semi-supple temper, combining suppleness with structural firmness. Unlike dyed Double Shot variants with glossy finishes, the crust version presents a more matte surface characteristic of unfinished leather. This difference results from the absence of finishing treatments that typically enhance surface sheen. The flesh side is finished in its natural brown coloring.

The undyed state allows the leather's natural color variations to remain visible. These variations stem from the tanning method itself and natural characteristics of individual hides. The surface displays the authentic grain pattern without the uniformity imposed by dyeing, showing organic features including growth marks, healed scratches, and regional density variations that dyeing processes typically obscure.

The lack of surface finishing creates a matte appearance despite the heavy oil content from hot-stuffing. Natural hide character remains prominently visible, with center sections of hides providing cleaner areas while belly regions may show fat wrinkles and looser grain structure. This unfinished presentation appeals to users valuing authentic leather characteristics and those intending to apply custom finishes.

Despite its undyed state, Crust Double Shot retains the signature pullup effect resulting from the multiple hot wax infusion process. When the leather is folded or creased, the fibers open and reveal lighter tones as the waxes and oils shift within the material. This creates tonal variations where pulled, folded, or stretched areas change appearance, though the effect manifests through the leather's natural color rather than revealing a contrasting dyed layer.

The oils respond to creasing and bending, producing dynamic tonal shifts that highlight contours and wear patterns. The pullup characteristics develop across the natural hide color, creating subtle depth changes rather than the dramatic color shifts seen in heavily pigmented variants.

The crust state provides maximum flexibility for aging and finishing outcomes. The leather can be left in its natural state to develop patina based solely on use, oils, and environmental exposure. This approach results in darkening over time as the natural fats oxidize and the material absorbs handling oils and environmental elements.

Alternatively, users can apply custom dyes, stains, or finishing treatments to achieve specific colors or effects. The undyed surface provides optimal absorption for such treatments, allowing even penetration and color development. The hot-stuffed oil content influences how applied colorants interact with the leather, potentially creating unique depth and variation difficult to achieve with conventionally finished materials.

The leather is more susceptible to moisture effects and color changes compared to sealed, finished variants. Surface treatments from use, including water exposure, oils from handling, and environmental factors, create visible changes more readily than on protected, dyed leather. This sensitivity contributes to more dramatic patina development for users who value evolving leather character.

The hot-stuffing process provides the same moderate weather resistance found in dyed Double Shot variants. The concentration of waxes and oils creates a barrier that repels water without making the leather completely waterproof. However, the absence of finishing treatments means the surface is more directly exposed to moisture effects, requiring more frequent maintenance or protection for wet conditions.

The leather offers excellent durability over time due to the protective qualities of the infused fats and oils. The full-grain construction and combination tanning ensure structural integrity through extended use. The softer temper compared to drum-dyed variants results from the absence of the stiffening effects of dyeing processes, potentially contributing to easier initial break-in.

Crust Double Shot is utilized by specialty bootmakers including Iron Boots, who collaborated with Østmo on Type 1 boots featuring this leather. The 7-ounce weight provides the thickness needed for durable footwear while maintaining the break-in characteristics expected from hot-stuffed leather. The undyed state appeals to customers seeking boots that will develop highly personalized patina based purely on wear patterns and environmental exposure.

The natural appearance differentiates footwear from standard dyed options, offering an aesthetic that emphasizes the leather's inherent character rather than uniform coloring. Some users prefer this authentic presentation, while others value the option to apply custom finishing treatments to achieve specific appearances.

The crust state makes this leather particularly suitable for artisans and makers who intend to apply their own finishing treatments. Leather workers can dye the material to achieve custom colors, apply patinas for aged appearances, or use specialized finishing techniques for unique effects. The hot-stuffed oil content creates different absorption and color development patterns compared to non-hot-stuffed crust, offering distinctive results for skilled finishers.

The combination of unfinished surface and embedded oils presents both opportunities and challenges for custom work. The oils may affect dye penetration and distribution, requiring adjustment of conventional finishing techniques. However, this same characteristic enables effects difficult or impossible to achieve with standard crust leather lacking the wax and oil saturation.