Seidel Stampede Roughout

Oak Street Bootmakers uses Stampede Roughout leather on their Field Boot and Trench Oxford models, with the leather available in Black Walnut and Tobacco colorways.

Stampede Roughout is produced through a multi-stage tanning process that combines chrome tanning with heavy oil stuffing. The leather begins as full-grain cowhide that undergoes chrome tanning for flexibility and resilience, followed by extensive treatment with oils, waxes, and tallows.

The hot-stuffing process involves submerging the tanned and dyed leather in a vat of hot oils, allowing the oil blend to fully permeate the leather fibers. This infusion of oils and waxes creates struckthrough oil penetration, where the treatment extends throughout the entire thickness of the leather rather than remaining only on the surface. The grain side of the leather receives additional treatment with waxes and oils before being turned inward during construction.

For the roughout configuration, the flesh side is left rough and untreated rather than sanded smooth. This preserves the natural texture of the corium layer, which forms the connection between the hide and the animal's muscular and subcutaneous tissues. The resulting nap has a more pronounced, uneven texture compared to suede or reverse leather that has been buffed or sanded.

Stampede Roughout maintains the full grain structure of the original hide while presenting the flesh side as the exterior surface. The leather retains its full thickness, making it more substantial than split suede while remaining lighter and more flexible than many traditional work boot leathers.

The exterior nap has a suede-like texture with visible variations in the surface that reflect the natural structure of the corium layer. Unlike sanded reverse leathers that present a uniform nap, Stampede Roughout shows the organic irregularities of the untreated flesh side.

The hot-stuffing process produces a pull-up effect when the leather is flexed or pinched. The oils and waxes within the leather shift in response to stress, causing the leather to lighten in color at points of flexion. This visual characteristic becomes more pronounced with use as the leather develops wear patterns.

The oil content may cause the leather to bloom, developing a cloudy or hazy appearance as oils migrate to the surface. This blooming effect occurs naturally and does not indicate a defect in the leather.

The oil-stuffing process provides Stampede Roughout with natural water resistance. The oils and waxes infused throughout the leather create a barrier that repels water and prevents moisture penetration. While not completely waterproof, the leather resists water exposure from rain, snow, and mud.

The textured nap surface excels at hiding scratches, scuffs, and wear marks that would be visible on smooth-grain leather. The irregular texture of the roughout finish makes surface damage less apparent, and minor abrasions can often be brushed out with a stiff-bristle brush.

The leather maintains a static appearance through extended wear, showing aging characteristics more gradually than smooth leather finishes. Over time, the leather develops patina as oils redistribute, high-wear areas compress and darken, and the nap takes on additional character from use.

The full-grain construction provides abrasion resistance while the oil content maintains flexibility. The combination allows the leather to withstand rugged use without becoming stiff or brittle.

Stampede Roughout requires less frequent conditioning than grain-side leathers due to its oil content. The leather can endure extended periods without treatment while maintaining its flexibility and water resistance.

Regular brushing with a stiff-bristle brush removes dirt, dust, and debris from the nap while helping to even out the texture. Brushing serves as the primary maintenance for the leather under normal use conditions.

When deeper cleaning is needed, saddle soap can be applied to remove embedded dirt and stains. After cleaning, boot oil can be used to restore conditioning if the leather appears dry. Leather grease provides additional water protection and can be applied when enhanced weather resistance is desired.

Water-based suede protector spray can be applied to increase water resistance while maintaining the nappy texture of the roughout surface. These sprays form a protective barrier without significantly altering the leather's appearance or feel.

If the leather becomes wet, it should be allowed to air dry at room temperature. Direct heat sources should be avoided during drying as they can cause the leather to shrink or become damaged.

The oil content makes Stampede Roughout unsuitable for tooling, stamping, or molding applications, as the oils prevent the leather from holding crisp impressions or defined shapes.

Oak Street Bootmakers incorporates Stampede Roughout leather into their Field Boot and Trench Oxford designs. These styles feature Goodyear welt construction, which allows for resoling and extended service life compatible with the durability characteristics of the leather.

The leather's combination of water resistance, low maintenance requirements, and ability to hide wear makes it appropriate for field boots and work footwear that encounter varied weather conditions and rough use. The lighter weight compared to traditional work boot leathers provides flexibility without sacrificing durability.

Stampede Roughout is available in two documented colorways. Black Walnut is an exclusive offering for Oak Street Bootmakers, while Tobacco has been referenced in product releases. The hot-stuffing process and finishing oils contribute to color variation and richness within each colorway.

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