Seidel Veg Retan is a combination-tanned leather developed by Seidel Tanning Corp. that uses chrome tanning followed by vegetable retanning. The leather is tanned in chrome and then retanned in a bath of bark and vegetable oils, creating a material that combines the softness of chrome-tanned leather with the character and durability of vegetable tanning. Seidel developed this leather exclusively for Oak Street Bootmakers and it is also used by Parkhurst in their heritage boot collections.
The leather features a full-grain surface with a soft, matte finish and a fine nap more similar to nubuck than traditional suede or roughout. The leather is lightweight and soft while maintaining firm hand and the durability expected of premium boot-grade leather.
The combination tanning process begins with chrome tanning to create a soft, pliable base material. The chrome-tanned leather is then subjected to a retanning process using heavy vegetable tanning with bark and vegetable oils. Seidel works with wet blue stock that has already been tanned to the point of preservation, then transforms it through specialized retanning processes.
This dual-tanning approach eliminates the need for hot-stuffing and wax finishing typical of traditional chrome tannage while retaining more pliability than pure vegetable-tanned leather. The result is leather that combines chrome tan's flexibility with some of the rigidity characteristic of vegetable tanning.
Seidel Veg Retan is full-grain leather with a soft, matte finish and a fine nap that resembles nubuck more closely than suede or roughout finishes. The leather is lightweight and soft to the touch while maintaining a firm hand that provides structural integrity in boot construction.
The natural color variant may display some color variation along with natural imperfections characteristic of full-grain leather hides. The unique Carbon variant exhibits distinctive coloration resulting from exposure to oils rich with natural carbon and minerals, shifting from cool light gray to rich earthen black depending on lighting conditions. The leather retains a natural and raw appearance while remaining soft and supple.
The vegetable-tanned component of Veg Retan causes the leather to develop a worn appearance relatively quickly compared to pure chrome-tanned leathers. The leather becomes darker over time and develops a subtle shine as it is worn and handled.
The rate and character of patina development can be influenced by when conditioning products are first applied. Natural Veg Retan leathers develop their characteristic patina without initial conditioning, with the aging process beginning immediately from first wear.
For Seidel Veg Retan leathers, Smith's Leather Balm or Bick4 are recommended conditioning products. Natural Veg Retan does not require conditioning when new, as the leather comes from the tannery with sufficient oils for initial wear.
Immediate conditioning application will darken the leather and alter its color, particularly noticeable on lighter natural variants. Due to this color-shifting effect, it is recommended to wear natural Veg Retan boots for several months before assessing whether conditioning is needed. Immediate application will also change the trajectory of patina development, potentially resulting in different aging characteristics than unconditioned leather.
Seidel Veg Retan was developed specifically for Oak Street Bootmakers and remains exclusive to that manufacturer for certain applications. The leather is also used by Parkhurst Brand for their heritage boot collections, demonstrating its suitability for traditional bootmaking.
The combination tanning process makes Veg Retan suitable for personalizations, engraving, and burning logos or names into leather goods. The leather is particularly appropriate for applications requiring both comfort and durability, as the chrome tanning base provides immediate softness while the vegetable retanning adds strength and structure that develops character over time.
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