ShinkiOiled HorsebuttCognac Teacore

Shinki Cognac Teacore Horsebutt

Leather Color

About

Shinki Cognac Teacore Horsebutt is a horsehide leather featuring a cognac-colored surface over a brown core that reveals itself through wear. Produced by Shinki Hikaku, the only tannery in the world to specialize exclusively in horse leather, this leather undergoes a vegetable tanning process that takes 10 months to complete. The term teacore originates from the Japanese 茶芯 (chashin), referring to the tea-like brown hues at the leather's core. Like other Shinki Oiled Horsebutt leathers, cognac teacore horsebutt exhibits the dense characteristics of horsehide from the shell portion of the hide, combined with the distinctive aging properties of teacore finishing.

Production process

Shinki Hikaku, located in Himeji, Hyogo Prefecture, Japan, was established in 1951 as a family-run business. The tannery's production process for horsebutt leather takes a full 10 months from raw hide to finished leather. The process begins with two months of submersion in tanning pits. After tanning, the hides undergo three to four months of natural drying and aging stages that contribute to the leather's unique texture and grain.

Shinki Horsebutt is processed similarly to shell cordovan. It contains the shell portion of the hide but is processed as horsebutt due to the smaller overall size of the available material. The tannery uses vegetable tanning methods, with Shinki horsehide being vegetable dyed with mimosa bark for tannins. Mimosa produces a pinkish-brown undercolor that stains the leather through absorbing the tannins during the tanning process. This extended production timeline reflects the tannery's dedication to quality and the complexity of producing horsehide through traditional methods.

For cognac teacore finishing, the naturally brown vegetable-tanned leather is surface-dyed. Teacore leather appears solid-colored at first, with the cognac variant featuring warm brown surface tones. The surface treatment is designed to wear away gradually through use, revealing the brown core beneath.

Leather characteristics

Cognac teacore horsebutt exhibits the fundamental properties of horsehide leather characterized by density and durability. The horsebutt section represents a specific area of the hide that contains the shell section but is processed as horsebutt due to size considerations. Shinki Horsebutt exhibits a distinct grain and texture that results from the tannery's processing methods.

The cognac teacore surface presents warm brown tones that contrast with the underlying brown core. Depending on the specific finishing treatment, the leather can have cognac or black surface coloring, with the cognac variant offering warmer initial tones. The vegetable tanning process contributes natural brown tones that exist beneath the surface treatment.

Aging and patina development

The defining characteristic of teacore leather is its transformation through wear. Teacore leather reveals a rich brown core beneath the surface as time and wear progress. The aging process creates patterns that reflect the specific use of each piece. With continued use, the surface layer gradually wears to expose the underlying brown tones, creating a progressive color transformation.

Cognac teacore creates an evolution through related warm brown tones as the surface wears. The progression moves through various shades of brown rather than contrasting colors. The leather continues to develop character throughout its lifespan as the teacore effect becomes more pronounced with extended wear.

Care and maintenance

Vegetable-tanned teacore leather benefits from basic care practices. The Rite Stuff recommends cleaning regularly with a soft cloth, avoiding soaking in water, and allowing the leather to air dry naturally away from direct heat. Leather conditioner should be used sparingly when needed. The aging characteristics of teacore leather mean that certain types of wear are expected and contribute to the intended aesthetic. Care focuses on preventing damage to the leather's structure while allowing the surface to develop naturally through use.

Applications

Cognac teacore horsebutt appears in footwear from specialized boot makers who work with Shinki Hikaku leather. Boot makers value the leather for its aging characteristics and visual transformation through wear. The cognac variant offers warm initial tones compared to black teacore while still providing the distinctive teacore aging effect.

Availability of cognac teacore horsebutt is limited due to Shinki Hikaku's specialized focus on horse leather and the 10-month production timeline. The horsebutt sections represent specific portions of each hide, further limiting the quantity of material available. John Lofgren Bootmaker is among the makers offering boots constructed with Shinki teacore horsebutt leather.

References

  • 1.

    "Shinki Hikaku Tannery". Viberg. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Service Boot Shinki Horsebutt". Viberg. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Shinki Hikaku Leather". John Lofgren Bootmaker. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 4.

    "What is teacore leather?". The Rite Stuff. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

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