Shinki Cognac Shell Cordovan

The leather is crafted using centuries-old pure vegetable tannage methods, with a tanning process that takes six months to complete. Shinki Hikaku is one of the few remaining tanneries globally that specializes exclusively in horse leather production, making shell cordovan from a specific layer of horse hide. One horse hide yields only two small oval pieces of shell cordovan, contributing to the material's rarity and value in heritage footwear applications.

Cognac represents a warm brown tone in leather, ranging from light brown to deep tan with variations from golden brown to reddish-brown. The color is characterized as a rich tan saddle color, darker than butterscotch and more golden than cinnamon or rust. In leather applications, cognac develops depth rather than flatness, creating dimensional quality that develops character over time.

The cognac shell cordovan from Shinki Hikaku displays the tannery's signature more polished luster compared to other shell cordovan producers, with a less waxy feeling. The color exhibits natural variation and subtle marbling, enhanced by the glazing process where the leather is polished with glass.

Shinki Hikaku produces cognac shell cordovan with a thickness of 4.0 oz (1.6mm), with a tolerance of ± 0.2mm. The leather receives a full aniline finish and is tanned with 100% mimosa tannins, resulting in medium firmness and smooth grain with glaze. The production process handles European horse hides through the entire leather production from raw hide to finished leather.

The tanning involves unique drying and aging stages taking up to four months beyond the initial six-month tanning period. The finished leather is hand-finished and made with traditional vegetable tannage methods that the company has refined since 1951. Shinki Hikaku's shell cordovan is known for its extremely clean and uniform appearance, capable of showing off cool tones and depth of color.

Shell cordovan's dense fiber structure resists creasing, forming smooth, elegant rolls instead of sharp creases. With wear, the surface takes on a lustrous sheen, bringing out subtle variations in tone. The leather requires very little maintenance and develops a beautiful patina over time.

The cognac color ages and deepens over time, with each tone becoming richer, warmer, and more complex with every passing year. Shell cordovan will slightly bleed over time, showing marbling of the surface grain. This aging characteristic is valued in heritage footwear for creating unique patina patterns that reflect the boot's history of wear.

Cognac shell cordovan is recommended for shoes, wallet exteriors, watch straps, and small leather goods. The leather's unique characteristics make it particularly well-suited for small leather goods applications due to its durability and aesthetic properties.

Raw cognac shell cordovan leather from RM Leather Supply starts at $109.99 for 10 dm (1.1 sqft), ranging up to $261.99 for 26 dm (2.8 sqft). One decimeter equals 0.107 square feet. Finished footwear incorporating this leather commands premium pricing, with John Lofgren Steadfast Chukka Boots in Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan Cognac retailing for $1,300.00 USD.

The John Lofgren boots feature Goodyear welted construction using USA-made flat welts, with Japanese leather lining, Italian-made Vibram half soles, and USA-made Quabaug heels. Construction includes double and triple stitching with Japanese-made steel shanks, demonstrating the premium construction methods typically paired with this leather.

Shinki Hikaku offers shell cordovan in multiple colors beyond cognac, including Natural, Whiskey, Cherry Red, Burgundy, Black, Emerald Green, Olive Green, and Deep Blue. This range allows makers to select shell cordovan colors appropriate for different boot styles and customer preferences while maintaining the consistent quality and characteristics of Shinki's production methods.