Shinki Natural Shell Cordovan

The natural color represents the undyed, full aniline finish state of the shell cordovan, making it one of the most difficult colors to produce as most shells are too dark to achieve this light shade. The leather features a more polished luster and less waxy feeling compared to shell cordovan from other tanneries, with characteristics that distinguish it from Western producers like Horween.

Shinki Natural Shell Cordovan has a thickness of 4.0 ounces or 1.6 millimeters, with a tolerance of plus or minus 0.2 millimeters. The leather receives a full aniline finish with a smooth glazed grain surface and smooth flesh side. The tannage uses pure vegetable tanning methods, with the leather dyed through to ensure consistent coloration. The firmness rating is medium, measured at six out of ten, and the leather is burnishable for edge finishing applications.

The shells are processed using centuries-old methods of pure vegetable tannage, requiring a full six months to complete the tanning process. Each piece comes from the specific cordovan layer of equine hide, producing the characteristic dense fiber structure that distinguishes shell cordovan from other leather types.

Natural shell cordovan offers significant patina potential due to its undyed state, allowing the leather to age and darken over time through use. The dense fiber structure absorbs oils, waxes, and conditioning agents evenly, enabling the development of a rich, consistent patina across the leather surface. The glazing process, which involves rubbing a glass rod with pressure to create the glossy finish, affects how quickly the leather develops patina.

Glazed natural shell cordovan has a shiny, glossy appearance from the start, while unglazed variants have a more matte, flat look. Unglazed natural shell cordovan tends to age and darken more quickly than glazed variants, as the glazing may act as a protective layer that slows initial aging. Hand oils and daily handling accelerate the color transformation, with the leather developing darker, golden-brown tones and eventually taking on whiskey or orange hues depending on exposure and care. Over extended use, both glazed and unglazed variants develop similar appearances, with unglazed leather potentially showing more color variation and surface irregularities due to its more natural state.

Shinki Natural Shell Cordovan is particularly well-suited for shoes, wallet exteriors, watch straps, and small leather goods due to its clean, refined qualities and appropriate thickness. The leather's slightly thinner and softer characteristics compared to Western shell cordovan make it ideal for applications requiring flexibility and fine detail work.

John Lofgren Bootmaker produces Combat Boots in Shinki Natural Shell Cordovan, priced at $1,650, featuring Goodyear welted construction with uppers completely built in Japan. The boots use USA-made Vibram 700 cork soles and Vibram 7335 cork heels, with specifications including a 1.5-inch heel height and 6-inch boot shaft. The construction employs multiple stitch types including single, double, triple, and quadruple stitching, with the boots available in E width fitting on Last 120.