Shinki Cognac Shrunken Horsebutt

Leather Color

About

Cognac is a medium brown color variation of Shinki Shrunken Horsebutt produced by Shinki Hikaku Tannery in Himeji, Japan. The cognac colorway exhibits warm brown tones characteristic of vegetable tanning with mimosa bark, with the color extending through the full thickness of the leather. This color option combines the structural properties of shrunken horsebutt leather with a versatile medium brown appearance suitable for heritage footwear applications.

Shinki Hikaku Tannery established in 1951 specializes exclusively in horse leather production, making it the only tannery globally focused solely on this material. The cognac coloration achieves its distinctive medium brown tone through vegetable tanning processes that take up to six months, resulting in leather that develops rich patina over time while maintaining the dense grain structure characteristic of horsebutt.

Characteristics

Color and Finish

Cognac shrunken horsebutt features a medium brown tone derived from vegetable tanning with mimosa bark. The leather receives a full aniline finish that showcases the natural grain while allowing patina development through wear. The cognac color is dyed through the entire thickness of the leather rather than applied as a surface coating. Teacore versions of cognac shrunken horsebutt feature brown color underneath the surface finish, revealing lighter brown undertones through natural wear patterns, creating subtle transitions from medium to lighter brown tones as the leather ages.

Grain and Texture

The shrunken grain texture provides a distinctive surface characteristic that balances visual character with functional durability. The leather exhibits what the tannery describes as a perfect balance of strong shrunken grain, surface character, lack of scarring, and flexibility. The dense grain structure provides added durability and resistance to wear. The leather displays a polished luster with less waxy feeling compared to horsehide from other tanneries. During use, the shrunken grain creates denser fibers that develop raised ripples over time, particularly after exposure to moisture.

Material Properties

Cognac shrunken horsebutt combines the material specifications documented for Shinki's shell cordovan with the structural characteristics of shrunken horsebutt processing. The leather measures 4 ounces (1.6 millimeters) in thickness with a tolerance of ±0.2 millimeters. The material exhibits medium firmness rated at 6 out of 10 on the tannery's firmness scale. The smooth grain surface includes a glaze finish on top. The aniline finishing process shows the natural grain while enabling patina development as the leather ages.

Production

Tanning Process

Shinki Hikaku produces cognac shrunken horsebutt using vegetable tanning methods that date to centuries-old techniques. The shell cordovan variant requires six months to complete the tanning process. The shrunken horsebutt version requires a full 10 months to produce, including two months with hides submerged in tanning pits followed by three to four months of natural drying. The extended production timeline creates the unique texture and grain characteristics that distinguish Shinki's horsehide products.

Processing Method

The leather undergoes processing similar to Shinki's shell cordovan production. The material contains the shell portion of the hide but receives processing as horsebutt due to smaller overall hide dimensions. The hides cure for months in mimosa bark tanning solution, with the pit-tanning process utilizing mimosa bark following vegetable tanning techniques passed down through generations. The tanning processes involve drying and aging stages that take up to four months, producing the distinctive texture and grain that characterizes Shinki horsehide.

Applications

Heritage footwear manufacturers including Viberg, John Lofgren, and Jakkrabbits utilize Shinki cognac shrunken horsebutt for premium boot construction. The leather appears in field boots and other heritage footwear styles where the brown/cognac tones complement traditional boot designs. The vegetable tanning process and material properties make the leather suitable for applications requiring both durability and aesthetic development through wear. The cognac color option provides bootmakers with a versatile medium brown that works across various boot styles while maintaining the performance characteristics of Shinki's shrunken horsebutt processing.

References

  • 1.

    "Shinki Hikaku Tannery". Viberg. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Shinki Hikaku Shell Cordovan - Veg Tanned (Cognac)". RM Leather Supply. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Shinki Hikaku - Antique Horsehide - Jacket Leather". RM Leather Supply. Retrieved October 11, 2025.

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