Brown Elbamatt Liscio is a drum-dyed Italian Vachetta leather color produced exclusively for Oak Street Bootmakers by Tuscany-based tannery Tempesti. This Elbamatt Liscio leather features an ultra-smooth grain surface combined with high flexibility, offering the shimmer and finish typically found in dress shoes while maintaining the durability required for heritage footwear.
The brown color variant represents one of several colorways in Oak Street Bootmakers' exclusive Elbamatt Liscio range, distinguished by its rich color depth achieved through higher oil content compared to Tempesti's Maine line. The vegetable-tanned leather develops a distinctive patina over time while retaining its soft, waxy finish and characteristic pull-up effect.
Oak Street Bootmakers offers the Cap-Toe Field Boot in Brown Elbamatt Liscio, featuring hand-lasted 270° Goodyear Welt Construction. The boot incorporates a partially-structured cap-toe with freehand brogueing and a Black Dainite Rubber-Studded Sole. This construction method combines the leather's flexibility with resoleable durability, making it suitable for both formal and casual heritage footwear applications.
The brown Elbamatt Liscio features a calf-like ultra-smooth grain surface that provides high flexibility despite its firm hand. As a classic Italian Vachetta leather, it undergoes drum-dyeing and greasing to achieve its characteristic soft surface while maintaining structural integrity. The vegetable-tanned leather is produced on single butts in thickness ranges of 1.0-1.2mm (2.5-3 oz) and 1.8-2.0mm (4.5-5 oz), with official specifications listing thickness from 1.0-2.0mm.
The leather maintains medium firmness as a full-grain material with no finish applied, preserving the unique character of the hides. This crust finish allows for superior patina development while the higher oil content creates deeper color appearance compared to other Tempesti lines. The aniline drum dyeing process ensures consistent color penetration throughout the leather while maintaining breathability.
The brown Elbamatt Liscio undergoes vegetable tanning using environmentally friendly processes with aniline drum dyeing. Hand stuffing with natural greases is applied during production, contributing to the leather's soft, waxy finish and rich color depth. The manufacturing process leaves the leather with a crust finish that preserves hide character and enables the delicate pull-up effect characteristic of this material.
Tempesti's production methods follow the standards of the Consortium "Genuine Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather," of which the tannery is a founding member. The vegetable tanning process uses natural tannins on half butts, creating an oiled, aniline leather that maintains the material's natural properties while achieving the desired brown coloration.
All vegetable-tanned leather changes over time, and the brown Elbamatt Liscio develops a rich patina due to its crust finish. The leather's natural aging process creates color variations and surface characteristics unique to each piece, reflecting individual wear patterns and environmental exposure. The soft, waxy finish contributes to the patina development by allowing natural oils and use to gradually alter the leather's appearance while maintaining its structural integrity.
The higher oil content in Elbamatt compared to Tempesti's Maine line affects patina development, creating deeper color changes as the leather ages. The combination of vegetable tanning, aniline dyeing, and natural greases ensures that the brown color evolves rather than simply fading, developing complexity and depth over years of use.
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