The Flat Head

Masayoshi Kobayashi founded The Flat Head in 1996. Before starting the brand, Kobayashi operated a vintage apparel store called Dessert Hills Market during the early 1990s. Kobayashi gained experience by sourcing and repairing vintage clothing, especially jeans, which led to an interest in denim construction and materials. This background contributed to the decision to launch a line of jeans using traditional techniques.

In 2019, Kobayashi resigned as president, and the brand filed for bankruptcy. Later that year, Sirius Partners, a Japanese private equity firm, acquired the apparel section of the business. Katsuya Miyasaka became the new president. The Flat Head underwent corporate restructuring and resumed apparel production.

The Flat Head uses a decentralized manufacturing process in Kojima, located in Okayama Prefecture. Artisans at different facilities are responsible for cutting, sewing, and finishing each product. This approach assigns distinct tasks to specialists.

The Flat Head relies on vintage machinery from the 1920s to the 1960s for construction tasks. These machines, including models by Durkopp and Union Special, are used for sewing pocket lips, chain-stitching hems, adding waistbands, and making buttonholes.

The Flat Head produces proprietary selvedge denim woven on vintage shuttle looms. The denim displays a vertical fading pattern known as "tate-ochi," which results from a specific dyeing technique and use of selected cotton yarn.

The Flat Head also makes loopwheeled t-shirts, flannel shirts, and leather jackets. The brand sources horsehide from the Shinki tannery in Japan for its leather jackets and boots.

The Flat Head releases denim jeans, such as the 3009 model, which is made from 14.75-ounce unsanforized raw selvedge denim. Features include hidden rivets, button-fly closures, back-pocket arcs, and a goat-leather waist patch.

The brand manufactures heavyweight loopwheeled t-shirts with triple-needle stitching at the neckline and no side seams. It also offers the WRJ-53A Horsehide Riders Jacket, which uses 1.3-millimeter vegetable-tanned horsehide with sateen linings, silver snaps, and side-cinch buckles.

Flat Head footwear includes Goodyear-welted engineer boots made from black Japanese cordovan horsehide. The company produces ombré flannel shirts with cat-eye buttons and black cotton backing in the sleeves and collar.

The Flat Head remains known within the heritage footwear and apparel industry for its continued use of traditional construction methods.