Wickett & Craig Burgundy H Latigo is a red-brown color variant of H Latigo, a hybrid vegetable-tanned leather produced by Wickett & Craig. Burgundy represents one of five standard production colors for H Latigo, alongside Black, Buck Brown, Medium Brown, and Olive. The color is achieved through the tannery's drum dyeing process, which applies burgundy dye during the leather's manufacturing cycle.
As with all H Latigo variants, Burgundy combines characteristics from Wickett & Craig's Traditional Harness and English Bridle leather lines. The leather features the smooth hand of English Bridle with the substantial cut of Traditional Harness, creating a less sensitive grain surface than either parent leather type. The burgundy dye penetrates the vegetable-tanned leather during drum dyeing, providing a rich red-brown color that develops patina through use.
Burgundy H Latigo undergoes Wickett & Craig's six-week vegetable tanning process at the Pennsylvania facility. Hides from North American cattle of European stock are processed through 72 vats containing tanning liquor made from natural tannins extracted from Mimosa and Quebracho tree bark. This two-week soaking period transforms raw hides into vegetable-tanned leather base stock.
Following tanning, the leather enters the drum dyeing phase where burgundy color is applied. The drum dyeing method ensures even dye penetration throughout the leather while maintaining the material's structural integrity. After dyeing, the leather undergoes fat liquoring with conditioning oils and waxes, followed by hot stuffing with additional waxes and tallows. This treatment provides the characteristic suppleness and depth associated with H Latigo while locking in the burgundy color.
The leather is then split to 4/5 ounce thickness and the flesh side receives finishing. The English Bridle finish technique, applied to the Traditional Harness crust, creates the hybrid characteristics that define H Latigo. The entire process from raw hide to finished Burgundy H Latigo requires approximately six weeks.
Burgundy H Latigo exhibits a red-brown color that provides richer tone than brown variants while remaining more subdued than pure red leathers. The burgundy dye creates depth in the leather's appearance, with color variation naturally occurring across individual hides based on fiber density and dye absorption rates.
The leather maintains the physical properties characteristic of all H Latigo production. The smooth hand from English Bridle finishing creates a refined grain surface, while the Traditional Harness cut provides substantial thickness suitable for leather goods and footwear applications. The less sensitive grain shows reduced tendency toward scuffing and surface marking compared to full English Bridle or Traditional Harness leather.
Hot stuffing with waxes and tallows contributes to the leather's suppleness and provides protection for the burgundy surface. The treatment allows the color to develop darker tones with use and handling, as oils from use integrate with the conditioning agents already present in the leather.
The vegetable-tanned base of Burgundy H Latigo supports natural patina development over time. The burgundy color darkens with exposure, handling, and conditioning, creating deeper red-brown tones in frequently contacted areas. High-wear points such as wallet edges, bag handles, or boot vamps develop more pronounced color depth compared to protected sections.
The drum dye penetrates throughout the leather thickness, meaning that surface abrasion does not reveal contrasting underlayers as occurs with surface-dyed or overdyed leathers. Instead, the burgundy color remains consistent through the leather's cross-section, with aging producing gradual overall darkening rather than dramatic color changes.
Oil absorption from handling and conditioning applications enhances the patina development. The vegetable-tanned structure readily accepts oils, which darken the burgundy base and create more complex color variations across the leather surface. This characteristic makes Burgundy H Latigo suitable for applications where visible aging contributes positively to the item's aesthetic.
Burgundy H Latigo is available in the same thickness range as other H Latigo colors, from 2-3 ounces to 12-14 ounces. This range accommodates applications from lightweight leather goods requiring thin, flexible material to heavier items needing more substantial stock. The standard 4/5 ounce split represents the most common thickness for general leather goods production.
Average side dimensions measure 24-27 square feet for standard hides. Unlike black H Latigo, which averages smaller at 18-20 square feet due to deep dye penetration affecting usable area, burgundy sides maintain the larger standard dimensions. The leather is sold by the side and back, following Wickett & Craig's standard distribution format.
Pricing follows Wickett & Craig's three-grade structure of Standard, Utility, and Special grades, with costs varying by thickness and quality level. The burgundy color does not command price premiums over other standard H Latigo colors.
Burgundy H Latigo's color provides alternatives to black and brown leathers in heritage leather goods and footwear. Wallets and small goods benefit from the burgundy tone's ability to show less surface wear than lighter colors while offering more visual interest than black. The refined flesh side finish and smooth grain make the leather suitable for applications where both sides of the leather remain visible.
In footwear applications, burgundy appears in both boot uppers and accent components. The color offers heritage aesthetics compatible with traditional work boot and service boot styles while providing distinction from standard brown offerings. Boot makers sourcing from Wickett & Craig include burgundy H Latigo among available leather options for custom and production footwear.
Bags and briefcases utilize burgundy H Latigo for its balance between structure from the Harness leather characteristics and flexibility from the English Bridle properties. The 4/5 ounce standard thickness provides adequate weight for bag construction while remaining manageable for sewing and assembly. The burgundy color ages attractively in these applications, with handle and closure contact points developing rich patina over years of use.
"H Latigo". Wickett-Craig. Retrieved October 10, 2025.
"Vegetable Tanning". Wickett-Craig. Retrieved October 10, 2025.
"Wickett & Craig Leather". Nick's Handmade Boots. Retrieved October 10, 2025.