Wickett & Craig Natural Latigo Roughout

The natural designation indicates the leather receives no dye during processing, showing the characteristic tan-brown color of vegetable-tanned hides. Wickett & Craig produces this leather using the same H Latigo base stock and vegetable tanning methods employed for grain-out variants, with the flesh side left in its natural state for exterior use. The combination of roughout construction and natural color creates leather particularly suited to work boots and outdoor applications requiring durability and distinctive appearance.

Roughout leather construction distinguishes itself from suede and nubuck through its treatment of the flesh layer. Where suede involves buffing or sanding the flesh side to create uniform nap, and nubuck involves sanding the grain side, roughout leaves the flesh side relatively untreated. The corium retains its natural rough texture without extensive finishing, creating a more substantial and durable surface than buffed alternatives.

For Natural Latigo Roughout, Wickett & Craig produces standard H Latigo through their vegetable tanning process without applying dye. Once the leather completes tanning, fat liquoring, and hot stuffing, it can be used with either orientation. When specified for roughout applications, the leather is cut and assembled with the flesh side facing outward, while the grain layer provides interior structural support.

This construction method combines the soft, textured feel of suede with the resilience of full-grain leather. The intact grain layer on the interior contributes tensile strength and shape retention, while the exposed flesh side provides the characteristic roughout appearance and tactile properties.

Natural Latigo Roughout undergoes Wickett & Craig's six-week vegetable tanning process beginning with North American cattle hides. The tanning yard's 72 vats process hides for approximately two weeks in tanning liquor containing natural tannins from Mimosa and Quebracho tree bark. This extended tanning period develops the leather's structure and characteristic vegetable-tan color.

Following tanning, the leather receives fat liquoring treatment with conditioning oils and waxes. The hot stuffing process then impregnates the leather with additional waxes, oils, and tallows, providing the suppleness and conditioning characteristic of H Latigo. These conditioning agents penetrate throughout the leather's cross-section, benefiting both grain and flesh layers.

The leather is split to desired thickness, commonly 4/5 ounce for general applications, though heavier weights are available for boot construction. Because the leather remains undyed, the natural vegetable-tan color shows throughout the material's thickness, from grain side to flesh side. The flesh layer receives minimal finishing, maintaining the natural rough texture that defines roughout leather.

Natural Latigo Roughout presents a tan-brown color reflecting the vegetable tanning process without dye modification. The exposed flesh side shows natural corium texture with visible fiber structure and irregular surface characteristic of roughout leather. This contrasts with the more uniform nap achieved through buffing suede, creating a more organic and variable appearance.

The texture feels substantially different from grain-out leather, with the exposed flesh providing a coarser, more tactile surface. The natural oils and waxes from fat liquoring and hot stuffing remain present in the leather, though they affect the flesh side differently than grain surfaces. The conditioning agents provide some water resistance and help prevent the flesh fibers from becoming excessively dry.

Durability exceeds that of traditional suede due to the retained grain layer providing structural support and the thicker, less processed flesh surface resisting abrasion. The natural rough texture shows wear differently than grain-out leather, with high-contact areas becoming burnished and compressed rather than showing color change or surface scratching.

Natural Latigo Roughout develops patina through fiber compression and color darkening rather than surface wear patterns typical of grain-out leather. The exposed flesh fibers gradually compress in high-wear areas, creating burnished zones with denser, smoother appearance. These compressed sections develop slightly darker color from accumulated oils and dirt, creating natural wear patterns.

The vegetable-tanned base allows the natural tan color to darken with exposure to light, oils, and handling. Unlike dyed leathers where aging reveals underlayers, Natural Latigo Roughout maintains consistent color throughout its thickness, with darkening occurring uniformly through the exposed fibers. This creates more subtle patina development focused on texture changes and overall darkening rather than dramatic color contrasts.

The leather readily absorbs conditioning treatments, which darken the natural color and enhance the suppleness of the exposed flesh fibers. Regular conditioning accelerates patina development and helps maintain the leather's flexibility, though excessive treatment can create overly dark or saturated appearance.

The exposed flesh side of Natural Latigo Roughout requires different maintenance than grain-out leather. Standard leather conditioners and oils can be applied, though they absorb more readily into the porous flesh surface and produce more dramatic darkening effects. Light, even application prevents blotchy appearance from uneven absorption.

The rough texture traps dirt and debris more readily than smooth grain surfaces. Brush cleaning with stiff bristle brushes effectively removes surface contamination without damaging the flesh fibers. The rough nap also shows water spotting less visibly than smooth leather, making roughout construction practical for outdoor and work applications.

The natural color shows staining more readily than darker dyed leathers, though the tan-brown base helps conceal some discoloration. The leather's durability and texture make it suitable for applications where appearance changes from use are expected and accepted. The roughout construction also provides better scuff resistance than grain-out natural leather, as the flesh side shows abrasion less prominently.

Natural Latigo Roughout appears primarily in work boots and heritage footwear applications. The combination of durability, natural appearance, and distinctive texture aligns with traditional work boot aesthetics and practical requirements. The leather performs well in outdoor environments where moisture resistance and abrasion protection are valued.

Military and outdoor gear historically utilized roughout leather for its durability and reduced visibility of wear. The natural tan color and rough texture blend with outdoor environments better than polished black or brown leathers. Modern heritage boot production continues this tradition, with Natural Latigo Roughout providing authentic roughout characteristics from American vegetable tanning.

The leather works for full boot uppers or as accent materials combined with grain-out leather panels. Some manufacturers prefer roughout for logger boot styles where the traditional aesthetic and practical durability align with the boot category's heritage. The substantial thickness and retained grain structure make Natural Latigo Roughout suitable for heavy-duty footwear construction requiring long-term durability.