Wickett & Craig Natural Harness Dyed Black Over Red

KREOSOTE designed this color treatment to resemble the type of leather used by German-American shoemakers throughout Kentucky hill country in the 1930s. The leather is processed using full grain vegetable tanned construction and receives a twice dyed oil ink treatment that creates the distinctive appearance.

The dyeing process begins with Wickett & Craig Natural Harness leather in its base russet color, which provides the foundation for the treatment. The leather receives an initial hand-dye application in red-rust, establishing the underlayer that will become visible through wear.

The second stage involves over-dyeing the red-rust base with jet-black dye. This creates the finished black appearance while maintaining the red underlayer. As the black walnut patina ages through use, the dye wears away in high-stress areas to reveal the red grain underneath, creating a distinctive two-tone aged appearance.

Wickett & Craig, established in 1867 and located in Curwensville, Pennsylvania, produces the base Traditional Harness leather using American-made traditional methods. The tannery processes the leather through vegetable tanning with an exclusive blend of waxes, oils and tallows that are hot stuffed to enhance the leather's characteristics.

The Traditional Harness undergoes jack glazing, a technique where oils are brought to the surface to create a glossy finish while preserving the natural grain structure. For the Natural Dyed Black Over Red treatment, KREOSOTE uses 5.5 oz weight full grain veg tanned leather, selected for its ability to accept the twice dyed oil ink treatment and develop the desired patina characteristics.

KREOSOTE, operated as a one-man custom boot making operation, applies this leather treatment to several boot models. The FiCTioN-bLACk boot, introduced in 2022 as a limited edition of 10 pairs, features an 11-inch total height and uses the Natural Harness Dyed Black Over Red leather for the uppers. The NINE dITCHES boot from 2020, with a five-inch top height, also employs this leather treatment.

Both boot models are made-to-measure (MTM) constructions with waiting lists extending 42 to 54 months. The FiCTioN-bLACk uses a custom 36KPSE PaRLOR SkAR last with German hand stitched welt construction, while the NINE dITCHES features 12 iron half-soles cut into the feather line edge with a beveled spoon edge heel.