Annonay Black Antique Calf

Carmina sources this leather from Tannerie D'Annonay, a French tannery founded in 1838 and currently owned by Hermès. The leather undergoes chrome tanning followed by aniline dyeing in drums, where the black dye penetrates deeper into the hide compared to surface finishes. The result is a leather that balances the formal character expected of black footwear with the dynamic aging properties that appeal to heritage footwear enthusiasts.

The black antique calf leather combines the structural properties of box calf with the finishing characteristics of antique calf treatment. The leather receives layers of synthetic material applied to the top grain, creating the signature waxy and shiny touch associated with the antique calf designation. This synthetic treatment sits on top of the chrome-tanned and aniline-dyed base, providing both protection and the distinctive aesthetic that differentiates antique calf from standard box calf offerings.

Black box calf has traditionally been recognized as the most rigid variant among colored calf leathers. The black dye makes the leather harder than equivalent brown or tan versions, as the dyeing process itself affects the leather's physical properties beyond simply changing appearance. When combined with the limited finish approach used for antique calf, the result is a leather that maintains structure during shoe construction while still being designed for burnishing, waxing, and patina development over time.

The leather ensures exceptional durability and wear resistance characteristics inherent to box calf tannage. The aniline dyeing in drums allows color to penetrate deeper into the hide structure rather than remaining only on the surface, providing better color retention through abrasion and flexing. The chrome tanning process used by Annonay creates a leather particularly suitable for Goodyear welted construction, the primary method employed by Carmina for their footwear.

The antique calf finish provides the black leather with a waxy, shiny surface that distinguishes it from matte or heavily pigmented black leathers. The finish is intentionally limited compared to fully finished leathers, designed specifically to accept additional burnishing, waxing, and polishing from the wearer. This approach creates a leather that arrives from the tannery with its final color and initial shine but is intended to develop and evolve with use.

The synthetic treatment on the top part of the leather creates specific care requirements and aging characteristics. The finish can develop lighter areas through wear and darker patches through wax accumulation, creating the varied surface appearance associated with antique finishes. Over time, the leather develops patina as the finish evolves through handling, exposure, and care products, though the black base color provides less dramatic color transformation compared to lighter antique calf variants.

The antique calf finish requires specific care approaches due to the synthetic treatment on the leather surface. Hard or stiff brushes can scratch the finish, so soft brushes or chamois cloths are recommended for regular cleaning and buffing. The finish responds well to light brushing that removes surface dirt without abrading the waxy top layer.

Wax application is recommended primarily for the heel and toe areas where shoes experience the greatest wear and stress. A small amount of wax should be applied to these high-wear zones and then buffed with a chamois to integrate it into the existing finish. The limited finish design of the leather makes it responsive to such conditioning, allowing the wearer to maintain and enhance the protective properties of the surface treatment.

The leather improves with time when properly maintained, developing the patina characteristic of quality box calf while retaining the distinctive surface qualities of the antique calf treatment. The combination of chrome tanning durability, deep aniline dyeing, and the antique calf finish creates a leather that evolves in appearance while maintaining its structural integrity through years of use.

Carmina Shoemaker, established in 1997 by José Albaladejo Pujadas and family in Inca, Mallorca, sources their highest quality calf leathers from Tannerie D'Annonay. The company also obtains black box calf from the German Weinheimer tannery, though the Annonay antique calf represents a distinct offering with its characteristic finish treatment.

Tannerie D'Annonay, founded in 1838, specializes in box calf tannage using chrome tanning methods. The tannery subjects all leather to rigorous quality control including visual inspection, physical testing, and chemical analysis before release. Currently owned by Hermès, the tannery produces the antique calf variants including the black option with the limited finish designed for artisan finishing by shoemakers and eventual patina development through wear.

Carmina uses this leather in their Goodyear welted construction, which the company has employed throughout its history dating back to the original Carmina workshop founded in 1866. The company offers both standard production and Made-to-Order services, as well as 3D Bespoke customization options, allowing customers to select the black antique calf for various shoe models and specifications.