Tannerie D'Annonay

The tannery achieved historical significance in 1872 when Eugène Meyzonnier developed waxed calfskin, commonly called Box Calf, which became a worldwide standard for dress shoe leather. Since its acquisition by Hermès in 2013, Tannerie D'Annonay has supplied premium calf leathers to luxury brands while maintaining traditional tanning methods combined with modern techniques.

Tannerie D'Annonay was established in 1838 when Etienne Meyzonnier purchased the business from master tanner M. Romain. The operation remained artisanal under Etienne's management, located in Annonay, a leather-production center since the 12th century. The tannery inherited craftsmanship knowledge from two renowned 20th-century tanneries in the region: Combe and Meyzonnier.

In 1872, Eugène Meyzonnier succeeded his father and developed a waxed calfskin intended for footwear, which he sold exclusively in Great Britain. The process involved sawing the skin in the thickness direction to treat the upper part in tawing for the grain, and the lower part with bark. This waxed calfskin, called Box Calf, is the tannery's primary claim to fame and became widespread leather used on countless dress shoes. Tannerie D'Annonay became a worldwide benchmark in box calf tannage through this development.

The most recent incarnation of Tannerie D'Annonay was founded in 1984. In January 2013, Hermès Cuirs Précieux acquired the tannery from its 80 staff members for an undisclosed amount. The acquisition aligned with Hermès' strategy of preservation and development of supply sources and related know-how. At the time of acquisition, Hermès already owned two tanneries in France, one in Italy, and a reptile tannery in Louisiana. In 2015, Hermès acquired Tanneries Du Puy, giving the company ownership of the two largest suppliers of calf leather for quality shoes in the world.

The tannery operates from a facility covering 8,000 square meters in the Rhône Valley region. The workforce has grown from 80 employees at the time of the Hermès acquisition to 110 artisans currently employed. Annual production capacity reaches approximately two million square feet of leather, with some sources citing up to three million square feet.

Tannerie D'Annonay combines traditional methods rooted in ancestral know-how with modern techniques to ensure optimal quality. The production process includes three essential steps: tanning, custom dyeing, and currying. Tanning is a chemical process that binds dermal fibers, making the leather rot-proof and durable. The tannery offers custom dyeing services, allowing clients to precisely choose the color of calf leather according to their projects. Currying adjusts the thickness, softens the material, and flattens the hides before finishing.

The box calf tannage process provides the leather with durability, wear-resistance, transparency, and beauty highly prized by luxury shoe and leather goods designers worldwide. As part of the HCP group, a collection of several tanneries specialized in exotics and calf leather, Tannerie D'Annonay supplies premium calf leathers to luxury leather goods and footwear brands globally.

Tannerie D'Annonay produces several varieties of premium calf leather for high-end footwear and leather goods applications. Box Calf remains the signature product: a smooth, durable, and elegant leather ideal for premium shoes and prestige leather goods.

The tannery's main product lines include Alpine Grain Calf, featuring embossed grain patterns with enhanced scratch resistance; Rusticalf, a supple full aniline leather that develops natural patina; Vegano, a crust calf with limited matte finish designed for burnishing and waxing; Vocalou Calf, Antique Calf, and Softcalf. Heritage footwear brands including Bradshaw and Lloyd use Annonay leather for their premium boots.