Annonay Vegano

The leather has a semi-bright aniline finish with a natural fine grain and slightly waxy touch.[2] Vegano is used by shoemakers including TLB Mallorca for their Picasso model Oxford shoes.[2]

Vegano features a natural fine and regular grain pattern with a slightly waxy touch.[2] The leather has a semi-bright aniline finish and is not dyed through the full thickness of the hide, instead being dyed only on the surface.[2][1] This surface-only dyeing process results in a softer leather compared to drum-dyed calfskins, as the hide does not undergo the drum dyeing process.[1]

The leather is made on beige crust with box calf handle characteristics, finished with a natural fine regular grain and silky touch.[3] This combination provides the structured feel associated with box calf while maintaining the matte finish and patina-developing properties of crust leather.

While Tannerie D'Annonay produces box calf with a traditional highly glazed finish, Vegano presents a limited matte finish specifically designed for surface treatments.[1] Box calf undergoes aniline dyeing deeper into the hide through drum dyeing, whereas Vegano receives only surface-level dye application.[1]

The crust leather construction of Vegano, which skips the drum dyeing step, generally produces a softer feel than fully drum-dyed calfskins.[1] This structural difference makes Vegano particularly suited for applications where leather will be burnished, waxed, or hand-patinated to develop custom finishes.

Vegano develops depth in its shade and gains character over time.[1] The leather's construction as a crust calf makes it particularly suitable for achieving patina and burnished finishes, which explains its popularity among makers and buyers seeking aged leather aesthetics.[4] The Italians and French pioneered the use of crust calf leathers, taking advantage of their history with colorful footwear.[4]

Natural crust articles from Tannerie D'Annonay, including Vegano, are designed specifically for hand-patina finishing applications.[1] The surface-only dye penetration allows the leather to respond effectively to burnishing and waxing treatments, developing authentic patina through wear and care.

Tannerie D'Annonay was founded in 1838 in the Ardèche region of France and specializes in tanning premium calf leather.[1] The tannery operates a factory of approximately 8,000 square meters with about 80 employees, producing approximately two million square feet of leather annually.[1]

The tannery has been owned by Hermès for a number of years, which allows Hermès to select many of the best hides for their own products.[1] Despite this relationship, Tannerie D'Annonay continues to supply leather to independent shoemakers and leather goods manufacturers.

Annonay produces a range of crust leathers that are dyed only on the surface, with Vegano being one of their offerings in this category.[1] The tannery's expertise in surface-finished leathers has made their crust range a standard choice for makers seeking leathers that develop patina.

TLB Mallorca incorporates Vegano leather in their Picasso model Oxford shoes, using French calf from Tannerie D'Annonay for this line.[2] The leather's properties make it suitable for dress shoes and boots where patina development is desired as part of the aging process.

The increasing popularity of crust calf leathers like Vegano reflects demand for footwear that develops a patina and aged appearance, with crust calf being considered optimal for achieving these visual characteristics.[4] This trend has been particularly strong in Italian and French footwear traditions, where colorful and patinated leathers have historical precedent.[4]

Vegano leather requires regular removal of loose dirt and dust using a soft cloth or brush.[2] Before applying any cleaning products, a patch test on a small, inconspicuous area is recommended to ensure compatibility.[2]

For cleaning, a soft cloth or sponge should be dampened with a small amount of mild leather cleaner and applied to the leather surface in a circular motion.[2] After cleaning, the leather should be allowed to air dry naturally, avoiding direct heat sources which can cause cracking or shrinkage.[2]

Once dry, a leather conditioner should be applied using a soft cloth, with particular attention paid to areas that appear dry or cracked.[2] With appropriate care practices, Vegano leather products can maintain their condition for many years.[2]