About
British Tan Calf is a warm tan colorway of Vegano crust calf leather produced exclusively for Grant Stone by Tannerie D'Annonay. The leather features the characteristic crust finish of Vegano, with surface-only dyeing that allows for patina development and burnishing.[1]
About
British Tan Calf is a warm tan colorway of Vegano crust calf leather produced exclusively for Grant Stone by Tannerie D'Annonay. The leather features the characteristic crust finish of Vegano, with surface-only dyeing that allows for patina development and burnishing.[1]
As a variant of Vegano, British Tan Calf shares the parent leather's supple hand and slightly waxy touch, while presenting a distinctive warm tan color.[1] Grant Stone has incorporated this leather across multiple models in their collection, including Cap Toe Boots, Longwing derbies, and Cap Toe Oxfords.[2]
Characteristics
British Tan Calf exhibits the defining properties of Vegano crust leather, being dyed only on the surface rather than through the full depth of the hide.[1] This surface-dye application distinguishes it from box calf leathers that undergo aniline dyeing deeper into the leather through drum dyeing processes.[1]
The leather has a nice depth in its warm tan shade and develops character over time.[1] It features a supple hand with a slightly waxy touch, and is less shiny than traditional box calf finishes.[1] The crust leather construction makes it particularly well suited to hand-staining and polishing applications.[1]
British Tan Calf creases beautifully over time and develops patina through wear.[1] The leather is more forgiving in how it creases and softens more evenly compared to stiffer box calf leathers.[1]
Products
Grant Stone uses British Tan Calf from Tannerie D'Annonay across multiple models in their collection.[2] The leather appears in their Cap Toe Boots, which are constructed on the Leo last.[2] British Tan Longwing derbies retail at $350.[2]
The company has also offered Fairfield Oxfords in British Tan Calf through their B-Grades section.[3] Cap Toe Oxfords are available in this leather as well.[2]
Production
Tannerie D'Annonay is located in Annonay, France, a region where leather tanning has been practiced since the 13th century.[1] The tannery operates a facility of approximately 8,000 square meters with about 80 employees, producing approximately two million square feet of leather annually.[1]
The tannery is owned by Hermès, which allows Hermès to select many of the best hides for their own products.[1] Despite this relationship, the tannery continues to supply leather to footwear manufacturers including Grant Stone.[1]
Chrome tanning is the primary tanning method used at the facility.[1] The tannery is recognized as one of the most well-known producers of high quality calf leather for footwear.[1] The leather embodies a legacy of expertise inherited from legendary tanneries like Combe and Meyzonnier.[4]
References
Jesper Ingevaldsson. "Guide - Shoe leather tanneries". Shoegazing. August 27, 2021. Retrieved October 30, 2025.
"In Review: Grant Stone Fairfield Oxfords". Dappered. Retrieved October 21, 2025.
"B Grades". Grant Stone. Retrieved October 21, 2025.
"Hermès D'Annonay Leather". Bondeno Shoes. Retrieved October 21, 2025.
