Aurora Shoe Co.

Maker

About

Aurora Shoe Co. is an American handmade footwear manufacturer based in King Ferry, New York. Founded in 1991 by Mary Jane Dann and George Shurman, the company produces leather shoes and boots using traditional construction methods in a rural workshop overlooking Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes region.

The company operates with a team of approximately ten employees, each specializing in specific steps of the 50-step assembly process required for each pair of shoes. Aurora Shoe Co. uses Horween Chromexcel leather from Chicago and Vibram soles designed for long-term wear through resoleable construction.

History

Founding and early years

Mary Jane Dann entered the shoe business in the 1980s while working at Greek Peak ski school, where she connected with George Shurman's wife and subsequently took a management position at his Ithaca leather goods store. Dann and Shurman created a venture producing handmade leather shoes using purchased patterns from a Michigan shoemaker. Shurman applied his Cornell anthropology background to design machinery that streamlined production into a profitable operation.

Dann relocated to Aurora in 1991, drawn by Wells College alumnae friends and the region's natural attractions. The company initially operated from the third floor of the Heary Building on Main Street with three employees, including Dann and Bill. Local popularity emerged quickly through Wells College students and the community. As students brought shoes home, awareness spread nationwide.

By the late 1990s, demand had grown substantially, necessitating larger facilities. In 1997, Dann relocated the company to its current location at 1690 State Route 90, King Ferry, south of Aurora village, offering expanded space, room for eight employees, and off-street parking.

Current ownership

Dave Binns purchased the company in 2009 from the original founders and serves as owner and president. Dann sold the company approximately 1.5 years before a 2010 blog post but stayed on for quality control and continuity. Binns' mechanical engineering background enabled slight automation while maintaining the handcrafted production approach. The company has operated from the same 10,000 square foot workshop for nearly 35 years, with the facility heated by an outdoor wood-fired boiler.

Manufacturing

Production process

Each pair of Aurora shoes involves approximately 50 assembly steps. The team of about ten employees each specializes in five to ten specific steps, with every employee touching every pair of shoes produced. The shoes were originally made entirely by hand by a single cobbler until demand required scaling the operation.

The company deliberately remains small and family-owned, prioritizing craft tradition and quality over profit margins. No separate office or marketing staff exists—all employees are craftsmen. Core shoe designs have remained relatively unchanged since 1991.

Materials and construction

Aurora Shoe Co. uses full grain Horween Chromexcel leather as its primary material. Horween, based in Chicago, is described as one of the oldest and most respected multi-generational tanneries in America. The leather is combination-tanned and hot-stuffed, developing a rich patina over time.

The company sources materials locally, using natural, renewable leather and rubber soles. Vibram soles are fully resoleable, designed to allow decades of wear with proper care. Leather scraps are recycled for belts, wallets, and notebook holders. The company uses time-honored techniques for assembly.

The Middle English model features a moccasin-shaped design with an adjustable buckle and Vibram sole. The partially lasted construction allows the customer's foot to shape the shoe during break-in, creating a custom fit.

Market and distribution

International expansion

Japanese retailer Hayato Takasu discovered the brand in 1993, starting with one pair. The company now receives orders of over 4,000 pairs annually from Japan alone. Products are also sold in China, Korea, and Taiwan.

Sales channels

Aurora Shoe Co. products are available through the company website, Etsy, and direct sales from the workshop in King Ferry. Recently, the company has expanded into leather accessories beyond footwear.

Collaborations

In 2025, Aurora Shoe Co. collaborated with MAN-TLE to create a laceless leather shoe. The collaboration combined MAN-TLE's durability-focused design approach with Aurora's handmade manufacturing methods.

References

  • 1.
  • 2.

    "Aurora Shoe Company". Inns of Aurora. Retrieved November 11, 2025.

  • 3.

    Silbert, Jake. "How MAN-TLE & Aurora Handmade a Perfect Laceless Leather Shoe". Highsnobiety. September 5, 2025. Retrieved November 11, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Meet Aurora Shoe Co. Founder, Mary Jane Dann". Aurora Shoe Company Blog. June 2010. Retrieved November 11, 2025.

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