About
The Middle English is a monk strap shoe manufactured by Aurora Shoe Co. in Aurora, New York. Introduced in the early 1990s, the Middle English features a two-piece leather upper with an adjustable brass buckle strap and Vibram sole. The name references the shape and simplicity of medieval monastic footwear.
About
The Middle English is a monk strap shoe manufactured by Aurora Shoe Co. in Aurora, New York. Introduced in the early 1990s, the Middle English features a two-piece leather upper with an adjustable brass buckle strap and Vibram sole. The name references the shape and simplicity of medieval monastic footwear.
The shoe is handmade using full grain Horween Chromexcel leather and traditional construction techniques. Each pair is hand-cut, hand-lasted, and sewn onto a leather insole by Aurora's small team of craftspeople. The Middle English gained recognition through craft-conscious retailers including Nepenthes and Drake's.
Design
The Middle English employs a monk strap design with large cuts of leather forming a two-piece upper construction. An adjustable strap secured by a solid brass buckle wraps across the instep. The unlined leather upper allows the material to mold to the wearer's foot over time.
The shoe's design takes inspiration from monastic footwear, resulting in what has been described as a squat leather clog silhouette. The simple construction emphasizes the quality of materials and handmade craftsmanship over decorative elements.
Materials and construction
Leather
The Middle English is crafted from Horween Chromexcel leather sourced from the Horween Leather Company in Chicago, a family tannery with over 100 years and five generations of leather-making experience. Chromexcel is a dense, high-oil leather that is hot-stuffed, drum-dyed, and hand-finished. The leather features a lustrous full grain finish with a glossy surface and supple texture.
When brushed, the oils in Chromexcel rise to the surface, developing a rich, buttery sheen. The leather softens over time while maintaining its structural integrity. Each pair develops a unique patina as the leather molds to the wearer's foot.
Assembly
The shoes are assembled using time-honored techniques. The simple, unlined leather uppers are hand-cut, hand-lasted, and sewn onto a 100 percent leather insole. Approximately 50 steps are required to complete each pair, with Aurora's team of about ten employees each responsible for five to ten specific steps. Every employee touches every pair of shoes during production.
The company sources thread from North Carolina and adhesives from Virginia, maintaining local American sourcing for all components. The entire process from stitching and assembly to packaging is done by hand.
Sole
The Middle English features a Vibram outsole attached to the leather upper. Women's Vibram soles measure just under one inch thick in the heel and about half an inch in the front, while men's soles are slightly thicker. The Vibram soles are fully resoleable and designed to last for decades with proper care. Stitching remains visible and accessible for repairs. Aurora Shoe Co. offers sole replacement services when the original soles wear down.
Sizing and fit
The Middle English is available in full and half sizes ranging from women's size five to men's size 12. Men's sizing runs two full sizes off from women's sizing; for example, a men's 8.5 corresponds to a women's 10.5. The shoes are offered in two width options: C (narrow to medium) and D (medium to wide). The most common width ordered is D.
For men, the Middle English runs true to size. Women typically order their usual size or size up half a size. Aurora Shoe Co. recommends sending a foot tracing for first-time purchases to ensure proper fit. Each half size increases length by approximately 5mm, with width and volume increasing proportionately.
Break-in and fit characteristics
The breathable full grain leather stretches and molds to the wearer's unique foot shape during the break-in period. Shoes should fit snug with bare feet initially. After three to four days of wear, the leather expands to accommodate thin to medium weight socks. The adjustable strap and buckle allow the wearer to maintain proper fit whether wearing socks or going barefoot.
The form and fit make the Middle English suitable for long work shifts or extended walking. Each pair wears in differently over time, with the rippled leather reflecting the wearer's individual foot shape and gait pattern.
Colors
The Middle English is available in five leather colors: Black, Brown, Dark Olive, Navy, and Oxblood. All color options use the same full grain Horween Chromexcel leather construction.
Production history
The Middle English has been in steady production since the early 1990s at Aurora Shoe Co.'s workshop. The company, founded in 1991, produces the shoes in a facility located on the edge of Cayuga Lake in King Ferry, New York. The company deliberately maintains a small, family-owned business structure, with no separate office staff or marketing team. All employees work as craftsmen, and the company prioritizes craft tradition and product quality over profit margins.
Most Aurora employees come from families with agricultural or craft backgrounds. The production approach emphasizes slow, intentional manufacturing, with core shoe designs remaining relatively unchanged since the company's founding.
References
"MIDDLE ENGLISH". Aurora Shoe Co. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
"Inside the Aurora Shoe Company's Upstate New York Workshop". Drake's. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
Silbert, Jake. "How MAN-TLE & Aurora Handmade a Perfect Laceless Leather Shoe". Highsnobiety. September 5, 2025. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
"Common Questions". Aurora Shoe Co. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
"Restock: Aurora Shoe Co. - Middle English". Nepenthes New York. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
"Aurora Shoe Co.". Aurora Shoe Co. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
"Middle English Style". Aurora Shoe Company Blog. October 2011. Retrieved November 27, 2025.
