Monkey Boots

Bad Hat Brothers manufactures the Monkey Boots using Horween Horsebutt leather with a fully gusseted tongue made from softer leather. The design features a sleek last paired with a chunky Vibram sole, creating contrast through the juxtaposition of refined upper styling and substantial outsole design.

Bad Hat Brothers produces all footwear using hand-welted construction exclusively, with both founders personally manufacturing every pair without external production partners. The construction process emphasizes leather throughout the build, with all components utilizing leather materials except outsoles and stitching. This approach extends to linings, insoles, and midsoles, reflecting traditional cordwaining practices.

The Monkey Boots feature a lace-to-toe design with ankle height and a chunky, robust sole typical of the monkey boot style. The fully gusseted tongue provides weather protection and structural integrity. Contrast stitching combined with natural heel and edge finishing creates visual interest through the interplay of tanned and natural leather tones. All shoe lasts are developed in-house by Bad Hat Brothers, allowing customized fit profiles.

Upper leather for the Monkey Boots consists of Horween Horsebutt, a dense leather cut from the rump section of horsehide. The gusseted tongue uses softer leather for flexibility and comfort. Bad Hat Brothers sources leather from both international tanneries including Horween and local Korean suppliers.

Outsoles come from Vibram and Dr. Soles, two established manufacturers of performance footwear soles. The specific Vibram sole selected for the Monkey Boots provides substantial thickness and tread depth characteristic of the monkey boot aesthetic. Production follows a made-to-order model with custom leather selection available depending on specifications.

Monkey boots originated in Czechoslovakia during the 1940s and 1950s as military footwear issued to the Czechoslovakian army during World War 2. The lace-to-toe construction was designed to provide maximum support and adjustability, rooted in function rather than aesthetics. After the war, surplus stock became available throughout the continent, including British surplus stores, where the style gained popularity among youth subcultures during the 1960s and 1970s, particularly with mod and skinhead movements.

Key historical manufacturers included Czech exporters Cebo and Svit, along with Polish manufacturer Zuch. Grafters became the archetypal monkey boot brand, producing boots in the Czech Republic until the late 2010s or early 2020s, when production relocated to India. Modern manufacturers maintaining the monkey boot tradition include Solovair, George Cox, Tricker's, and Dr. Martens.

Bad Hat Brothers was established approximately five years ago by two brothers in Seoul, each bringing about 10 years of cordwaining experience to the venture. The company operates from Seongsu handmade shoes district, a historic center of Korean shoemaking. The brothers chose hand-welted construction for its aesthetic qualities and connection to historical shoemaking practices, working within the Amecaji-inspired aesthetic tradition.

Standard boots from Bad Hat Brothers are priced between $650 and $750 depending on custom leather selection and design specifications. Engineering boots fall in the range of $800 to $850. These figures represent ballpark pricing, with individual orders varying based on buyer specifications.

Production time runs six to eight weeks for made-to-order boots. This timeline represents notably faster delivery compared to typical custom boot manufacturers, which often require 20 to 30 weeks or longer for bespoke orders. The company offers free delivery to the United States and Singapore.