Badalassi Carlo Habana

The finish is distinguished by its matte appearance with contrasting dyed grain and aged look. Badalassi Carlo holds certification from the Pelle Vegetabile Consortium, confirming adherence to traditional vegetable tanning practices using tree bark methods that the tannery has employed for over 40 years. Heritage footwear manufacturers including Oak Street Bootmakers and John Lofgren Bootmaker use Habana leather in their boot construction.

Habana leather begins as Minerva leather, which is produced through traditional vegetable tanning methods using natural tannins from tree bark and other organic elements. The base leather is classified as vacchetta, a term referring to leather infused with a special blend of animal fats and waxes that provide a softer hand than conventional vegetable-tanned leather.

The finishing process involves multiple treatments applied to the Minerva base. The leather undergoes tumbling and oiling treatments, followed by hand-padding with a special black speck finish. This hand-padding technique creates the characteristic two-toned appearance and distinguishes Habana from similar finishes like Nemesi, which uses drum dyeing and stone glazing instead. The hand finishing process results in noticeable variation across the hide, with some areas showing heavier stains than others depending on the application.

The tannery's production adheres to standards set by the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata Al Vegetale, a consortium founded in 1994 that includes more than 20 Tuscan tanneries operating between Pisa and Florence. Member tanneries combine ancient recipes with advanced technology, using processes that require time and patience representing a skillful combination of technology and experience. The vegetable tanning method is environmentally friendly and safe for sensitive skin.

Habana is full-grain cowhide, meaning it retains the complete natural grain layer without correction or buffing. The leather receives a full aniline finish, leaving it uncoated to preserve natural variations in the grain surface. This treatment displays the hide's natural characteristics while maintaining the material's breathability.

The leather is available in two thickness options: 4.0 ounces (1.6mm ±0.2mm) and five ounces (2mm ±0.2mm). It has a medium firmness rated at six out of 10 on the firmness scale, providing structural integrity while remaining workable. The grain surface features smooth texture with a smooth nap flesh side, and the dye saturates completely throughout the material rather than remaining surface-level.

The appearance combines a unique matte finish with contrasting dyed grain that creates vintage depth. The black speckled surface treatment gives the leather its characteristic rustic look, with hand finishing producing subtle color variations across each hide. The texture is described as soft with a slight waxy quality, comparable to French calfskin in hand feel. The material develops patina as it ages, with the color deepening over time through use and exposure to natural oils and light.

For craftspeople working with the material, Habana demonstrates favorable working properties. The leather is easy to cut and skive, has a burnishable surface, and can be split down to 0.6mm thickness. When cut as double shoulder (excluding the belly section), it yields 85 percent or greater usable cutting area, providing high efficiency for manufacturing applications.

Heritage footwear manufacturers incorporate Habana leather in boot construction for its combination of aesthetic character and structural properties. Oak Street Bootmakers uses Habana Iroko leather in their Cap-Toe Trench Boot, which features hand-lasted 270-degree Goodyear welt construction. The boots are made in the United States using traditional construction methods, with the leather described as hand stuffed to distinguish it from other Badalassi Carlo finishes.

John Lofgren Bootmaker offers multiple boot styles using Badalassi Carlo vegetable-tanned leathers, though their collection does not specifically list Habana among the available finishes. The bootmaker's products featuring Badalassi Carlo leathers include Steel Gang SW Boots, Donkey Puncher Boots, and Wabash Engineer Boots in various colors including Bone, Black, Grigio, Tobacco, and Cognac, with pricing ranging from $1,155 to $1,375.

Beyond footwear, Habana finds application in small leather goods where its soft temper and distinctive appearance suit products requiring flexibility and visual character. Craftspeople use the leather for wallets, watch straps, watch rolls, and belts. The material's vegetable tanning, burnishable surface, and ability to be split thin make it suitable for projects requiring both durability and refinement. The matte finish and aged aesthetic appeal to makers producing goods with vintage or rustic design intent.