Badalassi Carlo Spiga Habana

Leather Color

About

Badalassi Carlo Spiga Habana is a specific color variation of Habana leather produced by Badalassi Carlo tannery in Italy. This lightweight vachetta features a distinctive tobacco-brown coloration achieved through barrel dyeing and barrel staining processes, creating a two-toned appearance with natural variation and a special black speck finish. The leather undergoes full aniline treatment, making it completely natural with no additional surface finishing.

Tanning and Production Process

Spiga Habana begins as Minerva leather, a traditional Italian vegetable-tanned bovine hide. The leather undergoes vegetable tanning according to Tuscan methods, then receives further processing to achieve its characteristic appearance. Following the base tanning, the material is fatliquored and tumbled to develop its soft temper and natural grain texture.

The dyeing process involves barrel dyeing, where the leather is dyed completely through, followed by barrel staining in a drum. This method creates the distinctive coloration that resembles a cured tobacco leaf, with some areas showing heavier stains than others due to hand finishing. The leather is then oiled and hand padded to develop its matte finish with a slight waxy touch.

The full aniline finish means the leather surface remains completely natural, preserving both rich dark browns and warm highlights. Animal fats and waxes are infused into the material during processing, contributing to its characteristic feel and appearance. The tallow-greased finish provides both protection and the leather's distinctive sheen.

Physical Characteristics

Structure and Texture

Spiga Habana exhibits a firm hand with a medium firmness rating, balanced by a soft temper that provides a touch similar to French calfskin. The leather is milled with natural grain preserved on the top surface, while the flesh side features a smooth nap. As full-grain leather, it retains the complete natural grain pattern of the hide.

The material is cut as double shoulder, excluding the belly section, which ensures consistent quality throughout the hide. Standard thickness measures 4.0 ounces (1.6mm ±0.2mm), making it suitable for various applications while maintaining structural integrity.

Appearance and Finish

The coloration creates a two-toned effect with natural variation across the surface. The special black speck finish contributes to what Badalassi Carlo describes as a "very strong disunited and vintage effect." The subtle sheen preserves both dark brown tones and warm highlights, creating visual depth and character.

The matte finish carries a slight waxy touch, distinguishing it from high-gloss or heavily finished leathers. This surface treatment allows the natural grain and color variation to remain visible while providing practical durability.

Aging and Maintenance

The leather develops patina over time through use and exposure. As a burnishable leather, edges and high-wear areas can be polished to achieve a darker, more lustrous appearance. The full aniline finish allows the leather to age naturally, with color deepening and character marks developing through handling.

The combination of vegetable tanning and aniline finishing means the leather remains receptive to conditioning treatments. The infused animal fats and waxes provide inherent protection, though the material benefits from appropriate leather care products to maintain suppleness and appearance.

Applications

Footwear

Oak Street Bootmakers uses Spiga Habana in their Cap-Toe Trench Boot construction, featuring 360-degree Goodyear welt construction paired with Dainite rubber-studded soles. The leather's combination of firmness and soft temper makes it suitable for structured footwear that requires both durability and comfort during break-in.

Availability

Badalassi Carlo produces Spiga Habana in multiple formats for various manufacturers and leatherworkers. The leather is available through specialty leather suppliers and is selected by premium bootmakers and leather goods manufacturers for products requiring distinctive character and natural aging properties.

References

  • 1.

    "Cap-Toe Trench Boot - Habana Spiga". Oak Street Bootmakers. Retrieved October 30, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Habana". Mill Hand Made. Retrieved October 30, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Badalassi Carlo Habana Rustic Veg Tanned Leather Hides". Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. Retrieved October 30, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Badalassi Carlo Habana". Belts Production. Retrieved October 30, 2025.

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