Badalassi Carlo Minerva Roughout

The leather is manufactured using traditional Tuscan vegetable tanning methods with tree bark tannins, a process refined over centuries in the region between Florence and Pisa. The tannery is one of 19 member tanneries in the Genuine Italian Vegetable-Tanned Leather Consortium, founded in 1994 to preserve traditional vegetable tanning craftsmanship. The Minerva Roughout construction combines the wax-infused characteristics of standard Minerva leather with a reversed orientation that showcases the leather's natural texture.

Minerva Roughout leather maintains full-grain construction with the corium (flesh side) left largely untreated to create a rough surface texture. The grain side remains intact on the reverse, positioned as the interior surface of finished goods. This construction differs from suede, which has the grain layer split off by machine, while roughout preserves the complete hide structure with both grain and flesh layers intact.

The leather specifications include a thickness of 3.5 ounces (1.4mm ± 0.2mm) and a medium firmness rating. The material is dyed completely through and exhibits a supple feel with moderate structure. The untreated flesh side creates a coarser texture than buffed suede while maintaining durability comparable to standard full-grain leather due to the preserved grain backing.

Badalassi Carlo produces Minerva Roughout using vegetable tanning methods that employ natural tannins extracted from tree bark, leaves, and fruits rather than synthetic chemicals. The traditional Tuscan process involves immersing hides in tannin baths for extended periods, typically months, following ancient recipes combined with modern technology.

Standard Minerva leather receives infusion with a proprietary blend of Italian fat waxes to achieve its characteristic vacchetta hand and feel. The Roughout variant undergoes the same vegetable tanning and fat-liquoring processes before the leather is oriented with the flesh side exposed. The production methods adhere to Tuscany's environmental regulations and produce biodegradable leather that decomposes naturally.

Minerva Roughout finds use in heritage footwear construction, particularly for unlined boots where the smooth grain interior eliminates the need for additional lining materials. The leather appears in wallets, watch straps, bags, and small leather goods. John Lofgren Bootmaker produces several boot models using Badalassi Carlo vegetable-tanned leather, including the Steel Gang SW Boots priced at $1,250 and Wabash Engineer Boots at $1,375.

The roughout surface texture disguises scratches, scuffs, and wear patterns, making the material suitable for rugged applications. The leather's workability allows it to be cut and skived easily while maintaining structural integrity for lasting and construction.

The vegetable tanning process enables Minerva Roughout to develop patina over time as oils and waxes migrate through the leather structure. The aging characteristics derive from the natural tannins and fat-liquors used during production rather than synthetic finishes.

The leather requires waterproof spray treatment for water resistance despite having dense grain backing on the interior. Oils and waxes can be applied during tanning or as post-production treatments to modify appearance and enhance protective qualities. The rough surface texture accepts treatments differently than smooth leather, with absorbed products affecting the nap structure.