Badalassi Carlo Oliva Minerva Roughout Overdyed Black

The leather combines the textured, suede-like appearance of roughout construction with a black surface treatment that develops patina as the boots are worn. Sagara uses this exclusive leather in several boot models including the Cordmaster and Valiant.

The base leather is Badalassi Carlo Minerva in an olive green shade, constructed as roughout where the flesh side is used as the outer surface while the smooth grain side forms the interior. The vegetable-tanned leather is then overdyed black using drum dyeing techniques, where the hide is placed in a rotating drum with dye at temperatures of 50-60°C to achieve complete penetration.

The roughout construction creates a textured, suede-like exterior surface while maintaining the durability characteristics of full-grain vegetable-tanned leather. The dye penetrates completely through the hide thickness of 1.2-1.4mm.

As months of wear pass, the black overdye begins to wear off in high-friction areas, revealing the olive color and nap of the underlying roughout leather. This creates a two-tone patina effect where olive green shows through the worn black surface.

The leather develops patina particularly in areas of boot flex and contact, including ankle rolls and vamp creases. Negative crocking can occur where the boots contact jeans, especially at the ankle rolls, transferring black dye to fabric.

Badalassi Carlo tannery produces the leather using traditional vegetable tanning methods with tree barks, techniques dating back hundreds of years in the Tuscany region. The tannery holds certification from the Pelle Vegetale Consortium, confirming adherence to strict traditional vegetal tanning methods, and maintains membership in the Consorzio Vera Pelle Italiana.

The Minerva line features a light wax coating and combines smooth matte texture with firm structure suitable for boot applications. The oliva overdyed black treatment is offered exclusively through Sagara as a specialty finish not available in their standard made-to-order options.

Sagara Bootmaker uses Oliva Overdyed Black Minerva Roughout in several boot models. The Cordmaster features this leather with Morgan last, Norwegian Stormwelt construction, single midsole, and Dr. Sole Cord Full Sole in black, priced at approximately 5,900,000 Indonesian Rupiah. The Valiant model also utilizes this leather treatment.

These boots require a break-in period during which ankle rolls form and the leather shapes to the wearer's foot. The leather creases easily from the initial wear period, with the black surface beginning to reveal hunter green underneath through friction and flexing.