Badalassi Carlo Saddle Tan Minerva

Grant Stone has utilized Saddle Tan Minerva across multiple boot models including the Brass Boot, Diesel Boot, Field Boot, Plain Toe, and Nora Boot. The leather ships in a light orange color and evolves through exposure to weather and handling, darkening into warm caramel and red hues that create distinctive wear patterns on each boot.

Badalassi Carlo tannery produces Saddle Tan Minerva using traditional vegetable tanning methods that date back hundreds of years. The tannery, located in San Miniato, Italy, holds membership in the exclusive Pelle Vegetale Consortium, which certifies traditional vegetal tanning processes.

The tanning process begins with hides placed in a Bottali, a large rotating barrel, for a cycle lasting 30 to 35 days. During this period, organic tanning substances extracted from tree barks remain in continuous contact with the hides as the barrel rotates. Following the initial tanning, the leather receives treatment with animal fats inside wooden barrels, then undergoes dyeing with aniline colorings that provide a transparent finish. The process concludes with air drying and polishing to achieve the final surface characteristics.

Saddle Tan Minerva is classified as a vacchetta leather, infused with Italian fat wax during production. The leather features a smooth grain surface with a matte finish achieved through full aniline treatment. Individual pieces measure 5 ounces in thickness, approximately 2mm with a tolerance of ±0.2mm. When used in boot construction, the combined thickness of upper and lining approaches 4mm, creating a notably substantial feel.

The leather exhibits a supple texture with slight firmness, while the flesh side remains soft and receives dye treatment throughout. The grain surface displays depth and transparency in coloration, with darker hues occasionally appearing in certain areas as a natural characteristic of vegetable tanning. The material proves suitable for tooling and carving work, burnishes to increased shine when rubbed, and demonstrates ease of cutting and skiving for leather crafting applications.

The leather ships from the tannery in a light orange tone that undergoes significant color transformation through use. Initial exposure to weather and handling initiates darkening, with the leather developing warm honey-brown coloration as aging progresses. Extended wear produces deeper red tones and caramel hues, with some users describing the mature color as resembling molten caramel.

The patina development occurs unevenly across boot surfaces, creating natural variation between lighter and darker areas. Vamp sections develop prominent creases and breaks with wear, while the thickness of the leather causes it to form rolls rather than sharp creases. The vegetable tanning process contributes to this distinctive aging pattern, with each boot developing unique character based on individual wearing patterns and environmental exposure.

New boots constructed from Saddle Tan Minerva require a break-in period due to the leather's thickness and initial stiffness. Users report the first couple of months involve discomfort around ankle areas, though the sole typically achieves flexibility within several days of wear. The leather's substantial thickness and firmness soften gradually through use, eventually developing a comfortable feel against skin.

The material demonstrates resistance to common wear issues, with scratches rubbing out easily and stains having minimal lasting effect. Dark denim produces limited color transfer to the leather surface. Due to the 4mm combined thickness in boot construction, the leather resists typical creasing patterns, instead forming the characteristic rolls across flex points. Users report no loose grain development over extended wear periods. The vegetable-tanned composition produces natural squeaking sounds during initial use.

Regular maintenance requires brushing with a horsehair brush after each wear or on a weekly schedule. Shoe trees should be inserted following each use to maintain boot shape and facilitate drying. Cleaning involves wiping with a damp cloth, reserving mild leather cleaners for situations requiring deeper cleaning.

For conditioning, neutral Venetian Shoe Cream receives recommendation as the preferred product. Application should be followed by a drying period of 10 to 20 minutes before brushing to achieve a polished finish. Boot oils and mink oil products warrant avoidance, as these formulations may cause excessive darkening beyond the natural patina development. When exposed to water, the leather temporarily displays dark blotching that resolves naturally over a 24-hour drying period.

Grant Stone incorporates Saddle Tan Minerva into boots constructed using Goodyear welt methods with storm welt configuration. The company pairs the leather with full-grain American cowhide lining, vegetable-tanned leather midsoles and outsoles, and stacked leather heels. Boot models feature the Leo last with its characteristic wide toe box, along with steel shanks for arch support. Hardware consists of dulled brass components, typically arranged as four eyelets and three speed hooks.

Pricing for Saddle Tan Minerva boots reflects the premium leather sourcing, with the Brass Boot model listed at $348.00 in 2024, reduced from a comparison price of $435.00. The Diesel Boot sold for $360 in July 2021, with current listings at $380.