Badalassi Carlo Pueblo

Pueblo leather is manufactured at the Badalassi Carlo facility located at Via Martin Luther King 45/47/49, Ponte a Egola, San Miniato, Pisa, Italy. The tannery has specialized in vegetable-tanned leather production for over 40 years and maintains certification from the Genuine Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather Consortium, an industry organization established in 1994 that includes 19 member tanneries adhering to traditional vegetable tanning standards.

The tannery's location in the Tuscany region places it within a centuries-old leather production tradition, with the area known for strict environmental regulations governing tannery operations. This regulatory environment ensures that production methods maintain both traditional quality standards and environmental responsibility.

The tanning process for Pueblo leather follows traditional vegetable tanning methods using natural tannins extracted from tree bark. Hides are immersed in tannin baths for extended periods, allowing fuller absorption of the tanning agents. After the initial tanning with bark extracts, the leather is liquored with animal fats inside wooden barrels, a process that enriches the material with oils and fats.

Following the fatliquoring process, the leather receives transparent aniline dyeing, which penetrates through the material rather than remaining only on the surface. The leather is then air-dried and stone-polished before undergoing the distinctive hand-buffing process that defines Pueblo leather.

The hand-buffing involves rolling iron balls over the surface of the vegetable-tanned hide, creating a lightly napped, sueded texture. This mechanical process transforms the smooth vegetable-tanned surface into the characteristic matte, stone-ground finish that distinguishes Pueblo from other Badalassi Carlo leathers.

Pueblo is a full-grain cowhide leather with a suede-like, matte stone-ground finish. The surface exhibits a slightly rugged texture created by the hand-buffing process, distinct from the smooth finish of traditional vegetable-tanned leather. The leather is dyed completely through from grain to flesh side, with the flesh side remaining soft and smooth.

The material is available in 5oz thickness (2mm plus or minus 0.2mm), with some production runs available in thicknesses ranging from 1mm to 2mm. Standard hide sizes include full hides measuring approximately 48 by 48 inches (14-17 square feet, weighing 1,814 grams) and half hides measuring approximately 24 by 48 inches (7-8 square feet, weighing 907 grams).

The leather features medium temper that softens and becomes more supple with use. Despite the napped surface treatment, the material retains structural integrity suitable for applications requiring shape retention while offering enough flexibility for comfort in wearable goods.

Pueblo leather is produced in a range of colors including Natural (Bone), Cognac, Walnut, Olmo, Tobacco, Dark Brown, Black, Gray, Red, Yellow, Emerald Green, Olive Green, Aqua, and Ortensia (Turquoise). The transparent aniline dyeing process allows the natural grain and texture of the leather to remain visible while providing color depth that develops further through aging.

Pueblo leather develops patina rapidly compared to other vegetable-tanned leathers. The tanning oils inherent in the material allow the surface to burnish with use, becoming shinier rather than deteriorating. Subtle changes in appearance can be observed within weeks of regular use, with significant patina changes occurring within six to twelve months.

The initial matte, stone-ground surface gradually smooths out in areas subjected to frequent contact, creating a vintage appearance with varying degrees of sheen across the material. Dark tones emerge from polished surfaces in high-wear areas, contrasting with less-worn sections that retain more of the original matte texture.

Exposure to light, touch, and environmental conditions causes the leather to change both in color and texture over time. The transparent aniline dyeing and natural tanning process allow these changes to develop throughout the material rather than remaining superficial. Regular buffing with a dry cloth accelerates the burnishing process, increasing both the darkness of color and the level of shine.

The oil content from the tanning process contributes to the leather's ability to develop what is described as a rich, glossy patina. This characteristic makes Pueblo particularly suitable for applications where visible aging and character development are desired aesthetic qualities.

Pueblo leather is easy to cut and skive, making it accessible for both professional leatherworkers and craftspeople. The edges are burnishable, taking advantage of the natural oils and waxes in the vegetable-tanned material to achieve smooth finished edges without additional edge treatments.

The leather is suitable for tooling and stamping applications, though the napped surface texture means that tooled impressions interact differently with the stone-ground finish compared to smooth vegetable-tanned leathers. The medium temper provides sufficient firmness for structural applications while remaining supple enough for items requiring flexibility.

The material is not waterproof, and exposing it to water will cause discoloration and potential damage to the surface treatment. This characteristic is consistent with traditional vegetable-tanned leathers, which absorb moisture readily and require appropriate care in wet conditions.

Pueblo leather is used in the production of footwear, with applications ranging from dress shoes to work boots. The leather's combination of medium temper and patina development makes it suitable for heritage footwear where aging characteristics are valued. The material is also employed in bags, small leather goods, watch straps, and bookbinding items.

In watch strap production, Pueblo is valued for its comfort, flexibility, and distinctive aging characteristics. The napped surface provides a different tactile experience compared to smooth leathers, while the rapid patina development allows straps to quickly develop individual character based on wear patterns.

For wallets, notebook covers, and similar small leather goods, Pueblo's burnishability and patina development create products that show use over time. The medium temper provides enough structure for these applications while the material softens with handling, improving comfort and fit.

Craftspeople use Pueblo for both exterior components and interior linings, with the material's versatility allowing it to serve multiple functions within a single product. The stone-ground finish provides visual interest on exterior surfaces, while the soft flesh side works well for interior applications.

Pueblo leather can be treated with natural creams and waxes to condition the material and enhance protection. However, the leather already contains oils and waxes from the tanning process, making it relatively self-sufficient in terms of basic care requirements. Regular buffing with a dry cloth burnishes the surface and accelerates patina development, creating the glossy finish characteristic of aged Pueblo leather.

The leather should be kept away from prolonged water exposure, as moisture absorption can cause discoloration and damage to the stone-ground surface treatment. Brief encounters with moisture can be dried carefully with a soft cloth, but immersion or heavy wetting is not recommended for this material.