The Buck Wholecut Lace to Toe

The model requires specific leather characteristics including high elasticity and tensile strength to achieve the seamless construction. Briselblack produces The Buck through their made-to-order system, offering customization options for leathers, hardware, and sole configurations.

The Buck features wholecut construction, a heritage bootmaking technique that requires considerable skill. This method involves cutting the entire upper from a single piece of leather, eliminating all vertical seams except for a single back seam. The construction requires a blocking process where the leather must be pre-formed and stretched correctly before the lasting process begins.

The boot incorporates lace-to-toe design with blind eyelets, extending the lacing system to the toe area while maintaining the clean aesthetic of concealed eyelets. Built on Briselblack's Ben-01 last—a modified version of their previous Benzein Kapak last—the boot features an unstructured toebox design that allows the natural leather characteristics to define the shape.

The construction employs Flatwelt 270° welting, a method where the welt extends around 270 degrees of the boot's perimeter. This construction technique connects the upper to the sole through Briselblack's hand-lasting and hand-welting methods, representing traditional Indonesian bootmaking practices developed in Bandung.

The Buck is available in two leather options: Horween Natural Chromexcel Roughout and C.F. Stead Polo Brown Janus Calf Suede. The Horween Natural Chromexcel Roughout presents the flesh side of the leather outward, creating a nubuck-like texture that develops patina through wear. The C.F. Stead Polo Brown Janus Calf Suede is an English suede with durability characteristics and color development properties.

Sole configurations include Dr. Sole Black Cord Full Sole outsoles, providing durability and traction suitable for heritage boot applications. The boots incorporate Italian insoles and midsoles with 3mm thickness for comfort and support, along with German wooden shanks for structural integrity.

Briselblack offers extensive customization options through their made-to-order system, allowing customers to select from various leathers, patterns, hardware configurations, and outsole types. The company's seven craftsmen in their Bandung workshop handle these customizations, with communication conducted primarily through WhatsApp.

Production takes place at Briselblack's workshop in Bandung, Indonesia, utilizing traditional hand-lasting and hand-welting construction methods. The company specializes in both Veldtschoen construction and traditional Goodyear welt techniques, adapting the construction method to suit each specific design.

The workshop employs seven experienced craftsmen who handle the wholecut construction process. This technique requires considerable skill as it puts strain on the leather during the lasting process, demanding careful attention to achieve even stretching across the entire upper without compromising the leather's integrity.

The made-to-order production system allows for oversight throughout each stage of construction while accommodating individual customization requests. The combination of Indonesian bootmaking practices with international leather sourcing reflects Bandung's position as the center of Indonesia's shoe industry.