Dark Snuff Classic Calf is a full-grain smooth leather produced by British tannery C.F. Stead exclusively for Canadian bootmaker Viberg. The leather features a dark brown colorway with warm grey undertones, created using aniline-dyed French calf finished with natural oils and waxes. Dark Snuff has been used in Viberg's Chelsea boot and Derby shoe collections since at least 2024.
The color name derives from nasal snuff tobacco, reflecting the powdery, velvety tone characteristic of this traditional English shoemaking color. As a variant of C.F. Stead's Classic Calf leather, Dark Snuff retains the material's durable yet supple properties while offering a more muted brown tone compared to other C.F. Stead colorways like Tobacco.
Dark Snuff Classic Calf is manufactured from French calf skins using an aniline full-grain construction. The leather receives C.F. Stead's signature finish of natural oils and waxes, which creates a balance between texture and sheen. This treatment produces a subtle pull-up effect where the leather lightens when bent or stretched, revealing rich depth of color beneath the surface.
The full-grain construction retains the hide's natural surface with barely detectable pores, characteristic of fine French calf leather. The material undergoes a double-tanning process followed by aniline dyeing and oil-wax infusion. This combination results in leather that maintains both durability and suppleness, with visible grain texture that distinguishes it from true dress leathers.
The Dark Snuff color represents a more neutral hue of brown with slightly more green in the underlying color composition. This positions it as more muted and lighter than Tobacco, another traditional C.F. Stead colorway, while retaining the powdery, velvety tone associated with snuff colors in English shoemaking.
Viberg produces both Chelsea boots and Derby shoes using Dark Snuff Classic Calf. The Chelsea boot construction includes C.F. Stead Classic Calf leather from the United Kingdom, tan kip lining, leather toe puff, dark brown elastic and pull tabs, and a 360-degree antique split welt with antique finish. The sole uses French leather construction.
The Derby shoe features the 2030 last with natural Goodyear welt construction and a Dainite outsole. Both styles incorporate blind eyelets and are manufactured in small batch, limited runs at Viberg's factory in Victoria, British Columbia.
Snuff as a leather color has served as a quintessentially English shoemaking material for over 200 years. The color functions as an accent option in footwear collections, offering a traditional yet fresh aesthetic. Its neutral brown tone with subtle green undertones provides versatility for casual wear while maintaining the refined character associated with English leather craftsmanship.
The Classic Calf leather type is used by multiple heritage boot makers including Oak Street Bootmakers, Tricker's, and Crown Northampton. C.F. Stead's version is reserved for luxury footwear applications due to its combination of French calf origin, full-grain construction, and proprietary finishing process.
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