C.F. Stead Classic Oiled Shoulder

The leather is crafted from the shoulder portion of full-weight steer hides, which are tanned and stuffed with high oil and fat content before being aniline dyed. This treatment creates a durable leather suitable for heritage footwear and leather goods that develops patina over time. The semi-bright surface maintains the hide's natural grain characteristics while the waxed finish provides protection and enhances the aging process.

Classic Oiled Shoulder is produced in standardized dimensions suitable for footwear and leather goods manufacturing. The average skin size measures 10-12 square feet with a thickness of 1.8-2.0mm. The leather receives a fully-aniline tannage, preserving the natural surface of the hide without the application of pigmented topcoats that would obscure the grain pattern. The waxed finish is applied to provide water resistance and durability while maintaining the leather's ability to develop character through wear.

The leather exhibits a mellow full grain tannage with a casual appearance characteristic of oil-tanned leathers. The classic pull-up effect occurs when the leather is flexed or stressed, causing the oils and waxes to move within the hide and creating lighter areas that enhance the leather's depth and visual interest. The semi-bright surface reflects light while still showcasing the natural grain variations inherent to the hide.

The fully-aniline finish allows the leather to breathe and age naturally, unlike pigmented finishes that seal the surface. This treatment results in leather that responds to wear and environmental conditions, developing unique patina patterns specific to each piece. The high oil and fat content maintains flexibility while providing water resistance, making the leather suitable for footwear exposed to varied conditions.

Charles F. Stead produces Classic Oiled Shoulder at their Sheepscar Tannery facility in Leeds, where the company has operated since 1904. The tannery sources hides primarily from Argentina and New Zealand, selecting shoulder sections for their tight and pliable grain structure. The hides undergo tanning processes that include stuffing with oils and fats before receiving aniline dyeing, which penetrates the leather without obscuring natural markings.

The waxing process follows the dyeing stage, applying protective wax that enhances durability while allowing the deep pull-up effect characteristic of this leather type. The tannery's production methods maintain traditional leather working techniques while incorporating environmental management systems, having achieved Leather Working Group certification for sustainable practices.

Classic Oiled Shoulder is offered in multiple colorways to suit different footwear applications. Standard production colors include Caramel, Caramel Tan, and Bitter Chocolate from regular production runs. Extended color options include Dark Snuff, Swamp, Bright Toffee, Bordeaux, and Polo Brown, which appear in collaborative projects and special makeups with footwear manufacturers. The aniline dyeing process creates rich, natural tones that vary slightly between hides due to differences in the raw material's inherent characteristics.

Classic Oiled Shoulder appears in heritage footwear from multiple manufacturers who source leather from Charles F. Stead. Tricker's utilizes the leather for their Stow Boot model, constructed on the 4497s Last that the company created in 1937. The boot features Goodyear welt construction with either Dainite or Ridgeway soles depending on the specific makeup. Tricker's Brett Derby Boot also employs Classic Oiled Shoulder uppers, combining the leather with storm welts and traditional English boot construction methods.

Meermin incorporates the leather in service boots and derby shoes, applying their Ultraflex System construction welted on the ROD last. This construction represents a development of Goodyear welting that allows for resoling and rebuilding while providing comfort through the last's voluminous design and wide ball tread. Additional manufacturers working with Classic Oiled Shoulder include White's Boots, Viberg, Caswell Boot Company, and Jakkrabbits, each applying the leather to their respective heritage boot patterns. The leather's rugged character suits the substantial construction methods employed by these manufacturers, who select materials capable of extended wear cycles.

Classic Oiled Shoulder develops patina through wear as the oils and waxes redistribute within the leather, creating areas of lighter and darker tones that reflect the boot's use patterns. The aging process occurs naturally without requiring extensive maintenance, though regular care extends the leather's lifespan. Cleaning with a damp cloth removes surface dirt without requiring strong soaps that would strip the natural oils. The leather's oil-tanned nature means it requires less frequent conditioning than dry-tanned leathers.

Conditioning applications should use wax-based products that complement the leather's existing finish rather than oil-based conditioners that may oversaturate the hide. A thin layer applied periodically maintains flexibility while enhancing the aging process. Cream-based polish provides nourishment while wax polish adds protection and shine, with buffing creating the leather's characteristic deep patina. The waxed finish means the leather handles moisture exposure better than unprotected leathers, though proper drying after wet conditions prevents long-term damage.