C.F. Stead Black Janus Calf Suede

The black variant is chrome-tanned and dyed completely for a strong, deep color while retaining the material's full-grain construction and natural aniline reverse. This full-grain structure provides tighter fibers compared to split suede, resulting in enhanced water resistance and durability.

Black Janus Calf Suede is made from selected young calf skins with an average thickness of 1.4-1.6mm and skin sizes ranging from 13 to 15 square feet. The suede features a luxurious silky finish on the primary surface, with the handle described as "a touch firmer than soft" compared to softer suede varieties. The full-grain construction means the leather's fibers are tighter, providing better structure and water resistance than split hides.

The manufacturing process begins with chrome-tanned "wet blue" hides that undergo rehydration, anti-mould treatment, and shaving to reveal the fleshy fibers. The dyeing process uses large drums with capacities up to 1,400 kilograms, followed by "horsing" to remove creases, drying to 10 percent moisture content, and drum conditioning with oils and waxes. The leather is then toggled to flatten, buffed to smooth the surface, and receives final dyeing with a rotary spray machine.

Janus Calf Suede was originally developed for Northampton's traditional welted shoemakers and has served as the gold standard for footwear suede for decades. The name "Janus" derives from the Greek god meaning "two faces," referencing the leather's dual-sided nature with both a suede surface and a natural full-grain reverse. C.F. Stead has maintained the original tanning recipe unchanged for 50 years, preserving the material's distinctive characteristics across all color variants including black.

The British tannery, established over a century ago in Leeds, has focused on premium suede production for 65 years. Shoes made with Janus Calf decades ago remain wearable today, demonstrating the material's longevity when properly maintained.

Black Janus Calf Suede is primarily intended as a suede, with the grain side recommended only for trim applications. The material is thick enough to support design features such as padded collars and can be skived for preparing folded top lines and tongues in shoe construction. The full-grain construction makes it suitable for traditional Goodyear welted construction methods and allows for year-round wear.

Crown Northampton produces multiple styles in black Janus Calf Suede, including the Woodford Desert Boot at $333, the Overstone Derby at $350, and the Upton Wholecut at $350. These products are available with multiple sole options including gum, black, and white in sizes ranging from UK 3 to 13.

Black Janus Calf Suede is pre-treated with water repellent spray and can be maintained with occasional brushing and additional water-repellent treatments. The material is designed to hold its shape over time and evolve with wear, gradually molding to the wearer's foot. The full-grain construction allows the leather to be as durable as traditional full-grain leather when properly processed and cared for.

The tighter fiber structure provides enhanced resistance to water compared to split suede, though regular maintenance with a suede brush and cleaner remains recommended. The material's durability is evidenced by vintage examples that remain functional decades after manufacture.