C.F. SteadRepello Calf Suede

C.F. Stead Repello Calf Suede

Leather Type

About

Repello Calf Suede is a water-resistant calf suede leather produced by Charles F. Stead, a Leeds-based English tannery. The leather is treated with Scotchguard during the tanning process to provide resistance to water and staining that remains effective throughout the life of the product.

Repello Calf is a fine-napped suede tanned to provide a full, generous handle and rich appearance. The leather has been described as a flagship product from C.F. Stead that has stood the test of time. It is used by footwear manufacturers including Dr. Martens, Tricker's, Crockett & Jones, and Carmina for casual and dress shoes.

Specifications

Repello Calf Suede is available with average skin sizes of 12-14 square feet. The leather has a thickness range of 1.2-2.0mm, with some sources indicating weights of 3.5-4.5 oz (1.4-1.8mm). The material is classified as a classic suede product made from calfskin.

Available colors include Black, Bourbon, Brown, Chocolate, Coffee, Espresso, Ivory, Marble, Polo Brown, Snuff, Tan, and Visone. The leather features a tight-napped surface with a high quality, fine-napped finish.

Treatment and properties

The defining characteristic of Repello Calf is its protective treatment integrated during manufacturing. The leather is fully treated with Scotchguard in the tannage to achieve a high degree of resistance to staining. This water and stain resistance remains effective throughout the life of the footwear, as the treatment is incorporated during the tanning process rather than applied as a surface coating.

The main Repello suede colors are waterproofed during tanning to provide high water and oil resistance. This allows the suede to develop rich color depth while maintaining practical weather protection. The leather maintains strong yet supple characteristics, with a dense and healthy fiber structure.

Manufacturing

Repello Calf Suede is produced by Charles F. Stead in Leeds, England. The leather is made from calfskin sourced from younger animals aged 4-6 months, which provides a fresher, finer and more supple fiber structure compared to hides from older animals.

The hides are sourced from top European tanneries in France and Germany. The Scotchguard treatment is integrated during the tanning process rather than applied afterward, which ensures the water and stain resistance persists throughout the product's lifetime. The leather is tanned to provide a full, generous handle and rich appearance with a luxurious touch.

Uses

Repello Calf Suede is designed primarily for men's dress and casual footwear. The material is suitable for bag manufacturing and accessories as well. The leather is usually selected for shoes that will see extensive use due to its durability characteristics.

Dr. Martens incorporates Repello Calf in their Made in England collection, specifically in the 101 ankle boot model manufactured at their original Wollaston factory using Goodyear welted construction. The leather is also used by other footwear makers including Tricker's, Crockett & Jones, and Carmina Shoemaker.

Care and maintenance

Repello Calf Suede is considered relatively easy to care for compared to untreated suedes. Basic maintenance involves using a suede brush with brass bristles to remove dirt or dust, brushing in the same direction to restore the nap's finish. Shoes should have shoe trees inserted during brushing.

For color enhancement, a suede restoring spray can be applied by misting the shoes from 30cm away and allowing them to dry. Despite the Scotchguard treatment, some staining may still occur, so keeping the suede as clean as possible is recommended. If shoes become wet or dirty, they should be allowed to dry naturally before using any repair or restoring spray.

References

  • 1.

    "Repello Calf". Charles F Stead and Co Ltd. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 2.

    "C.F. Stead • Repello Calf Suede". The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Material World: Understanding Suede and Calf Suede". Crockett & Jones US. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 4.
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