C.F. Stead Black Repello Calf Suede

Leather Color

About

C.F. Stead Black Repello Calf Suede is a black colorway of **Repello Calf Suede**, a water-resistant calf suede produced by Charles F. Stead tannery in Leeds, England. The Black colorway presents deep, solid black tones in a fine-napped suede treated with Scotchguard during the tanning process to provide permanent resistance to water and staining. This treatment is integrated into the leather structure rather than applied as a surface coating, ensuring protection remains effective throughout the material's lifetime.

The leather features average skin sizes of 12 to 14 square feet with thickness ranging from 1.2 to 2.0 millimeters. Made from calfskin sourced from younger animals aged 4 to 6 months, the material exhibits a fine fiber structure that contributes to its refined appearance and supple characteristics. The Black colorway provides a versatile neutral tone suitable for both formal and casual footwear applications.

Material specifications

Black Repello Calf is manufactured from premium calfskin selected for its fine-napped surface quality and tight fiber structure. The leather is sourced from European tanneries in France and Germany, ensuring consistent quality and grain characteristics. The younger age of the source animals produces a fresher, finer, and more supple fiber structure compared to hides from older cattle.

The leather weighs between 3.5 and 4.5 ounces with thickness specifications of 1.4 to 1.8 millimeters according to some sources, though the general thickness range is listed as 1.2 to 2.0 millimeters. The fine nap creates a dense, tight surface texture that maintains the characteristic suede appearance while providing enhanced durability and water resistance through the Scotchguard treatment.

Treatment and properties

The defining characteristic of Black Repello Calf is its integrated Scotchguard protection incorporated during the tanning process. This treatment provides high resistance to water and staining that persists throughout the leather's lifetime, as it is part of the material structure rather than a temporary surface application. The waterproofing treatment allows the suede to develop rich color depth while maintaining practical weather protection.

The leather maintains strong yet supple characteristics with a dense and healthy fiber structure. The tight nap and fine surface finish contribute to easier maintenance compared to untreated suedes, while the permanent water resistance makes the material suitable for footwear that will encounter varied weather conditions. The full, generous handle and rich appearance result from the tanning process designed specifically for Repello Calf production.

Applications

Black Repello Calf Suede is used by multiple heritage footwear manufacturers for dress and casual shoes. Dr. Martens incorporates the leather in their Made in England 101 ankle boot, manufactured at the original Wollaston factory using Goodyear welted construction. Other users include Tricker's, Crockett & Jones, and Carmina Shoemaker, who select the material for its combination of refined appearance and practical weather resistance.

The leather's thickness and fine nap make it suitable for both structured boot uppers and lighter shoe constructions. The black colorway provides versatility for pairing with various sole options, hardware finishes, and complementary leather components in footwear manufacturing.

Care and maintenance

Black Repello Calf Suede requires simpler maintenance than untreated suedes due to its integrated Scotchguard protection. Basic care involves using a brass-bristled suede brush to remove dirt or dust, brushing in the same direction to restore the nap's finish. Shoe trees should be inserted during brushing to maintain shape and facilitate cleaning.

For color enhancement, suede restoring spray can be applied from 30 centimeters away, allowing the shoes to dry completely before use. Despite the Scotchguard treatment providing substantial water resistance, some staining may still occur, so regular cleaning maintains optimal appearance. If shoes become wet or dirty, they should dry naturally before applying any restoration products.

References

  • 1.

    Repello Calf. C.F. Stead. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 2.

    C.F. Stead Repello Calf Leather. The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 3.

    Material World: Understanding Suede and Calf Suede. Crockett & Jones. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 4.

    Dr. Martens Made In England 101 Boots. Jean Store. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

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