Bitter Chocolate

C.F. Stead Bitter Chocolate Waxed Kudu

Leather Color

About

Bitter Chocolate is a dark brown color variant of Waxed Kudu leather produced by C.F. Stead. The leather features full wax impregnation and exhibits the natural scarring characteristic of wild kudu antelope hides from Southern Africa. This color represents one of several standard options available in C.F. Stead's Waxed Kudu range, alongside Deep Forest, Seaweed, and Flint.

The leather combines softness with strength through C.F. Stead's proprietary Janus tannage, resulting in a pull-up leather that develops patina moderately quickly during wear. Heritage footwear manufacturers including Tricker's use Bitter Chocolate Waxed Kudu for boots and shoes valued for their distinctive character and aging properties.

Specifications

Bitter Chocolate Waxed Kudu is available in 4.5-5.5 oz weight, corresponding to 1.8-2.2 mm thickness. Distributors offer the leather in two size variants: smaller pieces ranging from 10-13.5 square feet and larger pieces ranging from 18-21 square feet. These specifications align with standard measurements for C.F. Stead's Waxed Kudu line, with average skin sizes of 13-15 square feet and thickness range of 1.6-2.2 mm.

Characteristics

The leather presents a nubuck finish on the grain side and soft suede on the reverse side. Full wax impregnation creates a distinctive pull-up effect where the leather shows color variation when bent or creased. Natural grain blemishes including scars and scratches from the wild kudu's life among thorn trees are intentionally highlighted rather than concealed, making each hide unique.

The Janus tannage process produces inherent suppleness while maintaining structural strength. The waxed grain responds to wear with good recovery against mild scratches, and the leather develops a natural sheen over time as it patinas.

Production

C.F. Stead sources kudu hides from Southern Africa, where the animals live wild in the bush. The hides are obtained through seasonal licensed culls conducted to control wild kudu populations. The proprietary Janus tannage method is designed to maximize the natural mellowness of the leather while preserving its strength.

The full wax impregnation process is applied to the grain side, intentionally making a feature of the natural grain blemishes rather than minimizing them. This treatment contributes to the leather's pull-up characteristics and distinctive casual appearance.

Aging and care

Bitter Chocolate Waxed Kudu develops patina moderately quickly compared to unwaxed leathers. The leather responds to wear by developing a natural sheen as oils and waxes redistribute across high-friction areas. The pull-up effect becomes more pronounced with use, showing increased color contrast in creased areas.

The leather demonstrates good recovery against mild scratches due to its wax content, with minor surface marks often diminishing as the wax redistributes. Regular conditioning helps prevent the leather from drying out while maintaining its distinctive waxed character.

Usage

Heritage footwear makers use Bitter Chocolate Waxed Kudu for boots and shoes where distinctive character and aging properties are desired. Tricker's produces chukka boots in this leather, marketing them as Tricker's exclusives. The leather's combination of durability and suppleness makes it suitable for premium footwear applications where natural markings and patina development are valued characteristics rather than defects.

Kudu leather has historical use in African footwear dating back over two thousand years, though the modern waxed variant represents a contemporary interpretation of this traditional material.

References

  • 1.

    "Waxed Kudu". Charles F Stead and Co Ltd. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 2.

    "C.F. Stead Waxy Kudu Leather". The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Mike Chukka Boot - Bitter Chocolate". R E Tricker Ltd. Retrieved September 30, 2025.

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