Gary Boots

Gary Boots

Model

About

The Gary Boots are an engineer boot style manufactured by Clinch Boots, the heritage footwear brand produced by BRASS Tokyo. Priced at $1,950 USD, the Gary Boots feature 270-degree flat welt construction with European horsebutt leather and are built on the CN-S last. The boots represent Clinch's interpretation of traditional workwear styling with contemporary Japanese craftsmanship techniques.

The Gary Boots are constructed in BRASS's Tokyo basement workshop using approximately 90% handmade techniques by Japanese definition. Like other Clinch models, the Gary Boots are part of the company's annual production of 800-1,000 pairs manufactured by a handful of expert craftspeople.

Construction

The Gary Boots utilize 270-degree flat welt construction with hand-sewn welted techniques. The boots feature an O'Sullivan's cork outsole combined with a channeled leather sole and heel assembly. This construction method makes the boots both resoleable and rebuildable, extending their functional lifespan.

The lacing system consists of seven eyelets, five speedhooks, and a final set of eyelets. All hardware components, including nails and welting materials, are sourced from Japan and finished in tonal custom brass.

Materials and Hardware

The Gary Boots are constructed using European horsebutt leather finished with black overdye. This leather retains the membrane typically removed during shell cordovan production, contributing to its distinctive characteristics. The high fiber density of the leather creates rolls rather than traditional creases during wear.

All hardware elements feature tonal custom brass finishing, including the eyelets, speedhooks, and internal construction components. The brass hardware, nails, and welting materials are manufactured in Japan specifically for Clinch's production requirements.

Sizing and Fit

The Gary Boots are built on Clinch's CN-S last, characterized by a shapely, low-profile design that widens at the ball of the foot. The boots are available in US sizes 7-12. The CN-S last provides a very snug fit from the waist to the heel area.

The manufacturer recommends sizing down 0.5 sizes for individuals with narrow or low-volume feet. The boots are not recommended for individuals requiring E or EE width fittings due to the last's specific proportions.

References

  • 1.

    "Gary Boots - Black Overdyed Horsebutt - CN-S Last". Standard & Strange. Retrieved September 19, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Clinch Boots Collection". Standard & Strange. Retrieved September 19, 2025.

  • 3.

    "BRASS: Crafting Heritage Workwear Boots in Tokyo". Vintage Clothing Guides. Retrieved September 19, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Report: BRASS/Clinch Boots". Shoegazing. April 1, 2025. Retrieved September 19, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Clinch by BRASS Tokyo Collection". Clutch Cafe. Retrieved September 19, 2025.

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