Clinch Gary Boots: 8 month Review

I mostly walk around the city in these boots. I work from home and often wear them throughout my day. I have gone on some very light hikes in the Bay Area but nothing too crazy. We get a good amount of rain in the PNW.

These boots are one of the most unique pieces I own and, in my opinion, one of the wildest releases from Brass Tokyo. When’s the last time you saw white boots with a finish like this? The Gary Boots use EQ Horsebutt leather, the same material as Clinch’s Engineer and Jodhpur models. However, what sets the Gary apart is that its EQ Horsebutt is tanned to be naturally white through and through—not dyed or lacquered. Unlike the Engineer and Jodhpur, where the EQ Horsebutt starts as a different color, the Gary’s white leather is a rare and hard-to-source version, according to Minoru at Clinch. Out of the box, the leather feels different from my Engineer Boots. It’s dense but has a soft, almost peached texture. One might assume this peached hand feel means the leather is dehydrated, but that doesn’t appear to be the case—it molds to my foot beautifully. After conditioning them a few months in, the texture shifts slightly but retains a softness in both feel and appearance, while still having the same density as the EQ Horsebutt in my Engineer and Jodhpur boots. It’s hard to describe without feeling it yourself. The “Dirty Finish” is achieved with black polish and a horsehair brush, creating unique brushstroke patterns on each boot. Every pair is different, making these a functional piece of art. The white leather slowly develops a patina, with subtle wear adding character. I’m still deciding whether to keep using black polish to enhance the dirty look, try other colors, or use neutral cream and let wear shape the finish. I’ll update you on how it goes.

The Gary was my first Clinch purchase, followed by their Engineer and Jodhpur boots. I went with Clinch size 11 (US 10). The CN-S last (used for the Gary) is 2-3mm shorter and 2mm wider on the outside than the CN-Standard last (used for my Engineer and Jodhpur), per Minoru at Clinch. I initially thought CN-S meant “CN-Standard,” but I was wrong. My Engineer and Jodhpur boots were comfortable from the start, but the Gary’s shorter CN-S last made the toe box feel tight. The pressure on my big toe came from above, not from touching the front of the shoe. Because the toe box was shorter, my big toe landed in a more shallow part, pressing up against the ceiling. My toes had just enough room to stretch out when standing, so the boot was borderline too short in length. I sent a photo to Brass Tokyo showing where my foot ended to confirm the sizing. They said it looked right based on the image but noted it ultimately depends on my preference and comfort. I consulted Minoru, who assured me the leather would mold to my foot. Too in love with the boots to sell them, I decided to test his theory. A trip to San Francisco with lots of walking finally broke them in, and they molded perfectly to my feet. If I’d worn them more actively from the start, the break-in would’ve been quicker. If I were buying again, I’d likely stick with size 11 since it fits great now, but I might consider a half size up for a used pair or a good deal to skip the break-in.

These boots are a masterpiece of craftsmanship, blending seemingly contradictory qualities. They’re remarkably light and minimalist yet exude a robust, substantial feel when held or worn. The design strikes a perfect balance, making these my favorite monkey boots on the market. The only minor flaw was an uncrimped eyelet, which I reported to Minoru. Their exceptional customer service shone through—they had me send the boots back for a fix, despite the issue being small enough for a local cobbler to handle. This commitment to perfection, even for a minor detail, speaks volumes about their standards. Typically, I gravitate toward Clinch for their iconic toe rolls, but the Gary’s snug fit keeps the toe box pristine, avoiding collapse. Instead, I’m getting distinctive ankle rolls, visible in my photos, which add character. These boots are aging uniquely, and I’m thrilled to see how they’ll evolve over

Most people would be pleasantly surprised by how easy these boots are to wear. In my experience, going with the same size on the Gary as I did with my Engineer and Jodhpur boots made for a tough break-in period, so you may consider going up half a size to avoid that. Everyone’s foot is different, so these are just my thoughts. If my foot was 2-3mm shorter, it wouldn’t be a big enough difference to justify a different size—I mention this to give perspective. Even when two people wear the same size, their feet and preferences can vary, so take this into consideration when choosing your size. They’re pricey, but they’re worth it. I wrote this to answer the questions I had before buying—some from research, others from experience. Check out my Clinch Engineer Boots review for more, and feel free to ask any questions in the comments. Let me know if I missed anything!