Yeager Boots

Clinch Boots produces between 800 and 1,000 pairs annually across all models, making the Yeager Boot among the more limited heritage footwear offerings available. The boot is available in several leather options including natural roughout cowhide and European horsebutt, with pricing ranging from $1,500 to $1,950 depending on materials and construction.

The Yeager Boot employs handwelted construction with hand-sewn welting throughout. The boot stands on custom O'Sullivan cork reproduction soles and heels, a design originally patented in 1899. The O'Sullivan soles provide a balance of durability, traction, and flexibility while maintaining a low profile appearance.

Construction features include custom brass hardware made in Japan and painted brown, with the paint designed to chip over time to develop patina. The boots utilize Clinch's precise stitching with high stitches-per-inch count throughout. Internal components include custom brass nails made in Japan and a natural cork layer beneath the leather footbed.

The manufacturing process involves individually soaking and molding insoles to the bottom of the last before building the boot around the shaped insole. Clinch uses leather heel counters and toe boxes rather than leatherboard alternatives. A crimping machine pulls the machine-sewn upper around the last for precise fitment, though all welting processes are completed by hand before the outsoles are attached using a Rapid-E machine.

The Yeager Boot is available in multiple leather options. The natural roughout version uses vegetable-tanned cowhide from Wickett & Craig in Pennsylvania. This leather has a sturdy, mid-weight character with medium stiff temper that softens after a few wears and conforms to the foot shape.

The horsebutt versions feature hand-selected European horsebutt leather chosen for high fiber density. This leather comes from the shell portion of the horse and contains the membrane portion typically removed to produce shell cordovan. The high fiber density creates distinctive rolling rather than creasing in flex areas, similar to shell cordovan characteristics.

Minoru Matsuura, Clinch's founder, maintains strict quality standards for horsebutt selection, with only 50 percent of available stock meeting the company's requirements for proper fiber structure. Materials that fail to meet standards are discarded rather than used in production.

The Yeager Boot is constructed on Clinch's CN-S (Classic Narrow Second) last, which provides a tight instep and trim fit throughout. The last design follows early 20th-century proportions with a narrow waist, snug heel, and adequate room between the eyestays for secure lacing.

For most people with standard D-width feet, Clinch recommends ordering one half size smaller than Brannock measurement. Those with particularly tall insteps should order their exact Brannock size, while customers preferring a roomier fit can choose their Brannock size. The CN-S last is not suitable for feet that are true E-width or wider.

The Yeager Boot is available through select heritage footwear retailers globally and directly from Brass Tokyo's online shop. The natural roughout version retails for $1,500, while overdye horsebutt versions are priced at $1,950.

Production is limited due to Clinch's small-scale manufacturing approach. The company operates with a staff of 10 to 11 people divided between production and office tasks across multiple locations, with the main site handling bottom making and finishing while upper assembly occurs on upper floors.