The Winchester is a quarter-brogue derby boot manufactured by Cobbler Union. Built on the company's SOHO last, it features a perforated cap toe with open lacing and exposed brass eyelets. The design draws inspiration from vintage naval boots, combining minimalist detailing with Goodyear welt construction.
The Winchester represents Cobbler Union's approach to versatile footwear, suitable for both casual and formal wear. The boot's quarter-brogue styling and derby pattern allow it to pair with jeans as well as suits.
The Winchester features a quarter-brogue style cap toe with perforations along the toe cap. The boot uses open lacing in a minimalist derby pattern, with exposed brass eyelets providing functional hardware. A pull tab at the heel assists with putting on the boot.
The design takes inspiration from vintage naval boots, translating historical military footwear into a contemporary dress boot. The SOHO last provides the boot's silhouette, balancing countryside ruggedness with urban elegance.
The Winchester uses Goodyear welt construction, a method that involves attaching the upper to the insole with a welt strip, then stitching the outsole to the welt. This construction allows the boot to be fully resoled, extending its lifespan with proper care. Each pair requires several weeks to produce and goes through over 220 processes during manufacturing.
Production takes place in small, family-owned factories in Spain. Over 70 components make up each pair, with more than 200 different operations performed during assembly. By the time the boots are packed for shipping, approximately 25 artisans have handled each pair. A full-time team based in Spain oversees every production batch.
The Winchester uses French Museum Brown calfskin for the upper leather, sourced from premium tanneries in France and Italy. These tanneries supply the same leather used by European luxury houses. The boot features an Italian leather sole with a beveled waist and closed-channel stitching.
Alternative sole options include studded Dainite rubber soles and brown Vibram soles with short studs. The interior uses leather construction with a quilted heel cup and color-matched lining. Saphir Medium Brown polish is recommended for maintaining the Museum Brown calfskin.
The Winchester uses UK sizing and is built on the SOHO last, which fits true to size for standard feet. The SOHO last features medium width proportions designed to fit comfortably on 85 percent of men. Cobbler Union spent one year designing, testing, and adjusting their lasts before finalizing the specifications.
For wider feet or higher insteps, sizing up half a size is recommended. Very wide feet or very high insteps may require moving to the brand's 312 last and sizing down half a size. In UK sizing, a US 9.5D corresponds to UK 8.5.
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