Conceria Cloe Superlux Reverse Horsebutt

The Superlux finish refers to a TPR resin treatment that provides a shell cordovan-esque appearance while maintaining the natural characteristics of the reverse horsebutt. The leather measures 1.8-2.0mm in thickness for lighter weight applications, with standard reverse horsebutt typically at 5oz (2.0mm) ±0.3mm thickness. The material features a subtle grain variation with a dry, matte touch, combined with a honeycomb wrinkle pattern characteristic of horse leather.

Reverse horsebutt is cut from the hind section of the horse, positioned just above the shell cordovan layer. When finished with the flesh side facing outward, the leather reveals residual shell cordovan traces that have bled into the fibers during the tanning process. This specific positioning gives the material properties distinct from both standard grain leather and shell cordovan itself.

The leather exhibits very soft tactile qualities while maintaining dense fiber construction. The texture is described as soft, gummy and stretchy, yet the material demonstrates considerable durability due to its fiber density. The full grain shows substantial denseness with a rich feel, providing both pliability and structural integrity. The medium firmness rating of 6 out of 10 indicates a balance between flexibility and body.

The distinctive honeycomb wrinkle pattern develops naturally in the leather, creating visual interest and character. The subtle grain variation contributes to the dry, matte touch that distinguishes reverse horsebutt from more polished leather finishes. These characteristics make each hide distinctive while maintaining consistent performance properties.

Conceria Cloe processes reverse horsebutt using full vegetable tanning methods, with no pigment or chrome tanning involved. The vegetable tanning process develops the leather's natural characteristics while ensuring compatibility with the specialized finishing treatments. The absence of chrome allows the leather to develop its distinctive patina properties over time.

The Superlux variant receives a TPR resin finish that creates a shell cordovan-esque surface appearance. This full aniline finish contains no surface coating that would obscure the leather's natural grain or characteristics. The treatment enhances the visual appeal while preserving the material's breathability and ability to develop patina. The resin application provides a lustrous quality without compromising the leather's natural feel.

Reverse horse butts are cut from horse butts that do not meet the strict requirements for shell cordovan production. This positions reverse horsebutt as a premium alternative that offers specific characteristics while utilizing portions of the hide that would otherwise go unused. The full vegetable tanning and careful finishing create a material suitable for demanding applications.

The leather develops a lustrous patina over time, with the surface acquiring an almost metallic sheen through use and exposure. The vegetable tanning foundation allows natural oils and handling to gradually transform the appearance, creating depth and character. The full aniline finish permits this patina development without surface coatings that would inhibit the aging process.

The patina formation occurs gradually, with high-wear areas developing more pronounced changes in color and luster. The interaction between the TPR resin finish and natural use creates distinctive aging patterns that enhance the leather's visual appeal. The material's ability to develop patina while maintaining structural integrity makes it particularly valued for heritage footwear applications.

The reverse cut is only available for bifold and Japanese wallet exteriors due to the small area where shell cordovan remnants appear on the flesh side. This limitation reflects the specific positioning of the reverse horsebutt cut on the hide, where only certain sections display the desired characteristics. The specialized nature of the material restricts its use to applications where the specific properties justify the premium cost.

Sagara Bootmaker offers The Boondockers style with Cloe Reverse Horsebutt Natural leather in the lighter 1.8-2.0mm thickness range. Boots made with this leather require almost zero break-in period from day one, as the soft and pliable nature of the material conforms quickly to the wearer's foot. This immediate comfort, combined with the leather's durability, makes it suitable for both casual and demanding use.

The material's combination of softness, density and visual appeal positions it for premium footwear applications where both comfort and aesthetic development matter. The vegetable tanning ensures the leather remains suitable for those preferring traditional tanning methods, while the Superlux finish provides a distinctive appearance that evolves with wear.