Conceria Cloe

Tannery

About

Conceria Cloe S.R.L. is an Italian tannery specializing in shell cordovan and horsehide leather production. Located in the Tuscany region of Italy, the family-owned business has operated since the 1980s, focusing exclusively on horsehide products including shell cordovan, horse culatta, and avancorpo. The company employs traditional vegetable tanning methods that involve approximately 100 processing steps, producing leather characterized by thickness almost twice that of comparable products, stiffness, and distinctive patina development.

The tannery produces shell cordovan that is almost twice as thick as comparable products, combined with increased oil and wax treatments that create leather with high patina potential. The tannery produces specialty cuts including "Double Shell" cordovan that incorporates both rear shell sections connected by the tail portion, particularly valued for belt manufacturing. Raw horsehides are sourced primarily from Poland with additional supplies from Venezuela.

Location and operations

Conceria Cloe S.R.L. operates from two locations in the Tuscany region of Italy. The company is registered in San Miniato, Pisa, while production facilities are located in Santa Croce, a traditional leather-working center in Tuscany. As a family-owned operation established in the 1980s, the business maintains small-scale production with one employee listed at the San Miniato location, though this may represent administrative staffing rather than total workforce.

The tannery operates within the wholesale sector of the Italian leather industry, specializing exclusively in horsehide processing. The focus on shell cordovan and related horsehide products reflects the specialized nature of the business rather than broad leather production across multiple animal sources.

Production process

Conceria Cloe employs completely vegetable tanning methods that require approximately 100 distinct processing steps to transform raw horsehides into finished leather. This traditional approach contrasts with chrome tanning methods, producing leather with different characteristics in terms of aging, patina development, and environmental impact.

The tanning process works with horsehides sourced mainly from Poland, with additional materials from Venezuela. The company processes multiple portions of the horsehide to create different leather products. Shell cordovan derives from the flat fibrous muscle beneath the skin on the horse's rump. Horse culatta comes from the hind section above the shell cordovan area, utilizing the outer grain of the rump. Avancorpo, or horse front, is produced from the back portion of the horse.

Recent production modifications have increased the oils and waxes incorporated during final treatments. This adjustment addresses earlier characteristics where the leather presented as relatively dry, enhancing the material's ability to develop patina while maintaining the signature thick, stiff properties that distinguish Conceria Cloe products.

Material characteristics

The shell cordovan produced by Conceria Cloe features a layer thickness almost twice that of comparable products from other tanneries. This increased thickness contributes to hides that present as stiffer and more solid than alternative sources, creating distinct working properties for craftspeople and different wearing characteristics for end users.

The leather exhibits a dry, matte touch in its initial state before use. Through wear and treatment, the material develops a lustrous patina with an almost metallic sheen. This patina development results from high oil content incorporated during production, making the leather particularly prone to visual evolution through use. The finished product features an imperfect, washed-out aesthetic that distinguishes it from more uniform leather finishes.

Horse culatta from Conceria Cloe demonstrates very soft temper despite the generally stiff character of the tannery's shell cordovan. This cut features subtle grain variation and maintains the dry, matte touch characteristic of Conceria Cloe products while developing similar lustrous patina properties.

Product offerings

Conceria Cloe produces several distinct horsehide leather products for various applications in footwear, leather goods, and accessories manufacturing.

Shell Cordovan represents the primary product, derived from the dense flat muscle beneath the rump skin. This material serves traditional applications in dress shoes, boots, and leather goods where durability and patina development are valued.

The tannery offers "Double Shell" cordovan, a specialty product that combines both rear shell cordovan sections connected by the interconnecting portion that runs over the horse's tail. This configuration provides extended leather sections particularly useful for belt manufacturers who require continuous strips of shell cordovan. The Double Shell format reduces waste and provides material properties consistent across the entire length.

Horsebutt, also known as horse culatta, utilizes the outer grain from the hind section above the shell cordovan, offering an alternative to cordovan with different working properties. The tannery also produces Reverse Horsebutt, which uses the flesh side as the exterior surface. Avancorpo, the horse front leather from the back portion, provides additional options for manufacturers requiring horsehide with distinct characteristics from the rump-derived products.

Pricing for Conceria Cloe skins is approximately €58 per square foot, reflecting the specialized production process, limited raw material availability, and extensive manual processing required for shell cordovan and related horsehide products.

References

  • 1.

    "Report - The Italian tannery Shell Cordovan". Shoegazing. October 9, 2016. Retrieved October 23, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Horse Culatta - Cloe S.R.L". Mill Handmade. Retrieved October 23, 2025.

  • 3.

    "CONCERIA CLOE SRL Company Profile". Dun & Bradstreet. Retrieved October 23, 2025.

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