Crockett & Jones

Maker

About

Crockett & Jones is a British footwear manufacturer founded in 1879 in Northampton, England, specializing in Goodyear welted shoes and boots. The company was established by brothers-in-law James Crockett and Charles Jones, each with a £100 grant from the Thomas White Trust. After more than 140 years of operation, Crockett & Jones remains family-owned through five generations and has earned recognition as a holder of the Royal Warrant.

Based in Northampton's historic shoemaking district, the company produces its entire range of Goodyear welted footwear in its original factory location. Each pair requires up to eight weeks to manufacture through over 200 specialized operations. The brand has gained cultural prominence through its official partnership with the James Bond film series, supplying footwear for multiple films including Skyfall, Spectre, and No Time To Die.

History

James Crockett was raised by his grandfather Henry Marshall, who operated a boot and shoe manufacturing business in Northampton. In 1879, six years after Charles Jones married James Crockett's sister Annie, the two men formed their partnership with £100 each from the Thomas White Trust. Their first factory housed 20 employees and established the foundation for what would become one of Britain's enduring footwear manufacturers.

By 1891, the company had relocated to a new factory on Magee Street, where production continues today. The current factory building was constructed in 1912 with a steel structure that has remained functional for over a century. Crockett & Jones became the first footwear manufacturer in the United Kingdom to install the new Goodyear Welting Stitching Machine around 1910, initially causing workforce disruption before being successfully integrated into production.

Wartime contributions

During both World Wars, Crockett & Jones contributed significantly to military footwear production. The company manufactured 3.5 million pairs of officers' shoes and boots for World War I and continued this service during World War II, producing over three million pairs total across both conflicts. Beyond military contracts, the company equipped Ernest Shackleton's 1914 Endurance Expedition to Antarctica with specialized footwear.

Royal recognition

The company received Royal Patronage in 1924 when the Duke of York, later King George VI, visited the factory. This early recognition was formalized in 2017 when Crockett & Jones was awarded a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales as "Manufacturer and Supplier of Footwear."

Manufacturing

Crockett & Jones specializes exclusively in Goodyear welted construction, a method where the upper leather, lining leather, and welt are stitched to ribbing bonded to the insole, with the welt then stitched to the sole. This construction allows for resoling while maintaining the shoe's structural integrity. The company produces 100 percent of its Goodyear welted shoes in its Northampton facility, maintaining direct control over product development and quality standards.

The manufacturing process involves over 200 individual operations and takes up to eight weeks per pair. Key steps include welt sewing, where operators stitch the welt to the rib attached to the insoles, and sole construction, where cork filling and wooden shanks provide structural support before the soles are stitched to the welt. This traditional approach requires a highly skilled workforce to execute the precision operations necessary for consistent quality.

Product lines

The company organizes its offerings into three primary collections, each targeting different market segments and construction standards.

Main Collection

The Main Collection features shoes and boots constructed with uppers from European leathers including aniline calf, suede, and country grains. These styles accommodate business, formal, and casual wear applications with both leather and rubber sole options. The collection represents the company's core production volume and serves as the entry point for most customers.

Hand Grade Collection

The Hand Grade Collection represents the highest tier of craftsmanship, requiring up to 10 weeks to complete each pair. These shoes use asymmetric lasts shaped to natural foot contours and uppers cut from premium calf skins with supple tannage for enhanced comfort. The construction includes channeled stitching where the welt attachment is hidden, and soles slowly tanned with natural barks for superior flexibility. Each Hand Grade shoe bears the company's heritage logo dating to the 1930s.

Shell Cordovan Collection

Crockett & Jones offers a Shell Cordovan Collection using what the company describes as unique and exclusive shell cordovan leather. These limited-production shoes represent the premium tier of the company's offerings and utilize the distinctive properties of cordovan leather.

Cultural partnerships

James Bond collaboration

Crockett & Jones maintains an official partnership with EON Productions for the James Bond film series. The collaboration began with Skyfall in 2012, where the company supplied four styles: Alex in Black Calf, Highbury in Black Calf, Tetbury in Black Wax Calf, and Islay in Dark Brown Scotch Grain. This partnership continued with Spectre, where Daniel Craig wore Norwich shoes in black throughout multiple scenes.

For No Time To Die, the company provided Molton Dark Brown Rough-Out Suede chukka boots for the Norway scenes and continued featuring the black Highbury model. To commemorate the 60th Anniversary of Goldfinger, Crockett & Jones launched the limited edition Highbury 2, inspired by the suede Derby worn by James Bond in the 1964 film.

The partnership has resulted in limited edition collections that celebrate specific films while introducing the brand to international audiences through cinema exposure.

Current operations

As of February 2024, Crockett & Jones reported annual turnover of £34.1 million with net assets of £37.6 million and cash reserves of £15.8 million. The company operates 11 flagship retail locations and employs approximately 50 retail staff members alongside its manufacturing workforce.

The business remains entirely family-owned after five generations, placing it among a small group of heritage brands including Hermès, Fendi, and Armani that maintain family control. This ownership structure allows for long-term planning and investment in traditional manufacturing methods while adapting to contemporary market demands.

References

  • 1.

    "Heritage". Crockett & Jones UK. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 2.

    "A History of Crockett & Jones". British Shoe Company. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Crockett & Jones: the beating heart of proper British footwear". The Gentleman's Journal. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Crockett and Jones Ltd". Royal Warrant Holders Association. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 5.

    "Report - Crockett & Jones' factory". Shoegazing. June 18, 2017. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 6.

    "Hand Grade Collection". Crockett & Jones US. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 7.

    "James Bond No Time To Die". Crockett & Jones US. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

  • 8.

    "Lasting Impressions: Crockett & Jones". Thomas Mason. Retrieved September 23, 2025.

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