Tanneries Du Puy

Acquired by Hermès Cuirs Précieux in November 2015, Tanneries Du Puy operates as part of the Hermès group's vertical integration strategy to secure premium leather supply. The facility employs more than 100 workers and exports approximately 50 percent of its production to high-end footwear and leather goods manufacturers globally. The tannery holds the Living Heritage Company (EPV) label, recognizing its specialized craftsmanship and traditional know-how.

Du Puy is particularly known for its Box Calf leather with a smooth finish and Scotch Grain leather, both of which are sought after by prestigious brands including Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and J.M. Weston. The facility uses a five-stage production process combining ancestral techniques with modern methods to create durable, fine-grain leather capable of developing an elegant patina over time.

Tanneries Du Puy was founded in 1946 in Chadrac, a commune in the Haute-Loire department of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region. The facility represents the last surviving tannery from Puy-en-Velay's historic tanning district, which was once a center of the leather industry in France.

From 2011 to 2015, the tannery operated under the control of J.M. Weston, a luxury shoemaker. During this period, the company maintained its specialization in calfskin production while serving as one of only five tanneries in France focused on this material. The facility had an estimated annual turnover of approximately 20 million euros but had been reporting financial losses in the years leading up to its acquisition.

On November 26, 2015, Hermès Cuirs Précieux acquired Tanneries Du Puy in an undisclosed transaction. The acquisition preserved approximately 100 jobs in the region and aligned with Hermès' strategy to secure supply chains for materials used in its luxury goods production. Box Calf leather, one of Du Puy's signature products, had been described as one of Hermès' materials prior to the acquisition, making the tannery a strategic asset for the luxury group.

The tannery focuses exclusively on full-grain calf leather production using chrome tanning methods with aniline dyes. This specialization places Du Puy among a small group of French tanneries with expertise in calfskin processing, a craft shared by fewer than five operators in the country.

Box Calf leather represents the tannery's flagship product, featuring a smooth finish created through specialized finishing techniques. For detailed information about this leather type, including variants like Chateaubriand Box Calf and technical specifications, see the dedicated Box Calf article.

Du Puy has also established itself as a supplier of Scotch Grain leather, which features a distinctive pebbled surface texture. This leather type has found particular application in country boots and outdoor footwear, where the textured surface provides both aesthetic character and practical durability. The tannery also produces some products using semi-vegetable tanned full-grain calf leather, though chrome tanning remains the primary method.

Production at Tanneries Du Puy follows a five-stage process: beamhouse work, tanning, sorting, finishing, and quality control. This systematic approach combines what the company describes as ancestral techniques with modern processing methods, reflecting both traditional craftsmanship and contemporary efficiency standards.

The tannery has developed an exclusive tanning process over its decades of operation, which contributes to the durability and fine grain structure of its finished leathers. This process is designed to create leather capable of developing patina through use, a characteristic valued in heritage footwear applications where gradual color evolution and surface character are desired.

Finishing capabilities at the facility include customization options for color, surface shine level, grain texture, and suppleness. Clients can specify matte to glossy finishes, request custom colors beyond standard offerings, and adjust the grain texture and flexibility characteristics to suit specific product requirements. This flexibility in finishing allows the tannery to serve diverse client specifications while maintaining its core focus on calf leather production.

The French government awarded Tanneries Du Puy the Living Heritage Company (Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, or EPV) label, which recognizes businesses with exceptional traditional or industrial know-how. This certification identifies the tannery as preserving specialized skills and craftsmanship methods within French manufacturing heritage.

Tanneries Du Puy holds Bronze-level certification from the Leather Working Group (LWG), an industry organization that audits environmental compliance and traceability in leather production. The certification, valid from December 18, 2023, to December 18, 2026, reflects the facility's adherence to environmental standards. Under LWG Audit Protocol 7.2.4, the tannery achieved a physical traceability score of 77.67 percent and a documented traceability score of 11.78 percent. The facility operates under LWG URN TAN114.

The tannery also maintains membership in the French Tanners' Federation (Fédération Française des Tanneurs Mégissiers), the professional organization representing tanning and leather-finishing companies in France.

Tanneries Du Puy exports approximately 50 percent of its production, supplying high-end brands in international markets. The tannery's client base includes Hermès, Louis Vuitton, and J.M. Weston, luxury manufacturers that use Du Puy's calf leathers in footwear and leather goods production. The facility also supplies bespoke bootmakers and specialty footwear manufacturers that require premium calfskin materials.

The tannery's location in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region positions it within France's historical leather production area, though it remains the sole survivor of what was once a larger tanning district in Puy-en-Velay. This geographic heritage contributes to the tannery's identity within the French luxury goods supply chain.