Du Puy Box Calf

Du Puy specializes in producing box calf through an exclusive tanning process developed over decades. The tannery holds Living Heritage Company (EPV) certification from the French government, recognizing its commitment to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. On November 26, 2015, luxury goods manufacturer Hermès acquired Tanneries du Puy to preserve the tannery's specialized production methods and secure supplies of calf-box leather for its collections. Before the Hermès acquisition, the tannery had been owned by shoemaker J.M. Weston since 2011.

Du Puy box calf undergoes a five-stage manufacturing process that transforms raw calf hides into finished leather. The process begins with beamhouse work, where raw hides are cleaned and softened in preparation for tanning. During the tanning stage, hides are treated with Du Puy's exclusive chrome-tanning process that imparts the leather's characteristic durability, fine grain, and patina development capabilities.

After tanning, hides enter the sorting stage in their wet blue state, where they undergo meticulous evaluation for grain uniformity, surface defects, suppleness, and thickness consistency. The finishing stage allows for customization across over 300 available options, including adjustable colors, shine levels ranging from matte to glossy, tailored grain textures, and controlled suppleness. Each hide completes the process with rigorous quality control inspection to ensure compliance with specifications for suppleness, grain quality, color accuracy, and surface finish.

Du Puy box calf has a thickness of 1.2 to 1.4 millimeters, classifying it as a medium-weight leather suitable for footwear construction. The full-grain structure preserves the natural characteristics of the hide while maintaining suppleness and providing structural support. The leather features a semi-aniline finish with a silky satin texture and semi-bright appearance. The material has a firm texture and medium handle that can be burnished to achieve a glass-like finish.

The leather's smooth surface is generally thinner and more delicate compared to other French calf leathers such as those from Annonay. Box calf from Du Puy combines immediate comfort with structural integrity, making it suitable for high-end footwear that requires both flexibility and durability. The full-grain construction and tanning process allow the leather to develop a distinctive patina as it ages with wear.