Raider Boots

The boots are bench-made in Japan at John Lofgren's workshops in Sendai using custom-made materials including Italian vegetable-tanned horsehide in an exclusive "walnut brown" tannage developed specifically for Eastman Leather. The reproduction captures the robust construction of the originals, featuring double-stitched welts, custom raw cord outsoles, and lace-to-toe design that characterized the boots adopted by Carlson's Raiders in 1942.

The Theodore Bergmann Shoe Manufacturing Company was founded in Portland, Oregon in 1904 by Theodore Bergmann, who was born in Rötha, Germany in 1856. After learning the shoemaking trade in Germany, Bergmann immigrated to the United States in 1882 and eventually moved to Portland in 1893 before establishing his eponymous company. The factory specialized in outdoor footwear for loggers, hikers, and explorers, earning recognition for quality that included a gold medal at the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exhibition for best logging and men's boots.

The company's reputation for durability was demonstrated during World War I, when the U.S. Army trusted Bergmann's quality so thoroughly that it skipped inspection of 12,000 pairs delivered in 1918. Operating under the slogan "The most powerful shoe in America," the company became particularly known among loggers, construction workers, and ski enthusiasts for heavy-duty boots. Theodore Bergmann passed away in 1932, with his obituary carried by the Associated Press, reflecting the company's regional prominence. The Bergmann Shoe Company continued operations until closing its doors in 1957.

Eastman Leather's Raider Boot has been developed from archive sources of the few original pairs that exist, aiming to create a definitive high-quality recreation of this iconic footwear. The project to produce the finest version of this boot model had been on Eastman's wish list for many years before becoming reality through collaboration with John Lofgren's workshops in Japan.

John Lofgren Bootmaker was founded in 2012 by John Lofgren, a native Californian whose passion for vintage clothing led him to Japan. Despite its relatively young age, the company has established itself among the best shoe manufacturers globally, crafting footwear that showcases the pinnacles of Japanese craftsmanship while using only the highest quality materials sourced ethically from Japan, America, England, France, Germany, and Italy. The boots are constructed in Sendai by shokuninkishitsu, craftspeople wholly dedicated to perfecting their craft.

The boots feature Italian vegetable-tanned horsehide in an exclusive "walnut brown" custom tannage developed specifically for Eastman Leather. The vegetable-tanned leather starts somewhat stiff but breaks in over time, taking the shape of the wearer's foot and softening considerably. The brown dye at the surface darkens as it absorbs oils and moisture, while areas where the uppers scuff reveal the lighter natural core beneath.

Construction details include custom lasts based on original World War II boots, with 12 mil-spec tonal eyelets and a double-row 270-degree Goodyear welt. The boots are double-stitched at high-stress points for durability and feature shuttle loom woven labels. The outsoles and heels are custom Eastman-branded raw cord with tread pattern and coloring taken from the originals, built on a 16-millimeter triple-stack sole configuration matching the original specifications.

The boots incorporate full leather lining and a fully gusseted tongue with brown rawhide laces. The lace-to-toe configuration, preserved from the original Bergmann design, enables better and secure adjustment to the foot. The design features a rounded toe, relaxed fit through the waist, and comfortable heel on an E-width last. Perforated Eastman branding appears at the shaft.

The USMC Raider Boots are offered in three colorways: Walnut, Dark Seal Brown, and Dark Brown Roughout. Available sizes range from 7D through 11.5D. Sizing guidance recommends choosing one size smaller than Brannock device size for optimal fit, as the boots run approximately half a size large. Pricing is set at a sale price of $1,220 USD, with a regular price of $1,355 USD for the walnut horsehide version.

The boots are designed in England and manufactured in Japan, maintaining Eastman Leather's commitment to quality while leveraging John Lofgren's exceptional Japanese craftsmanship. The collaboration between these two manufacturers brings together Eastman's expertise in historical military reproduction with John Lofgren's mastery of traditional bootmaking techniques.