The Declan

The Declan represents a modern interpretation of the classic chukka boot, characterized by its low-profile silhouette and minimal eyelet configuration. The boot features a 4.75-inch shaft height measured from the heel, which provides ankle coverage while maintaining the traditional chukka proportions. The design pairs well with straight leg trousers due to its lower profile compared to traditional work boots.

The boot is available in three color options: brown, black, and tan. Each pair includes brass finish eyelets and comes with two sets of 26-inch laces—one round waxed cotton and one flat waxed cotton—allowing wearers to customize the aesthetic and functional characteristics of the lacing.

The Declan utilizes Blake Rapid stitch construction, a manufacturing method performed with a worker-operated machine. This construction technique differs from Goodyear welting in that it uses fewer layers of leather, resulting in a more flexible boot while maintaining resoleable characteristics. The process is less expensive than Goodyear welting but provides equal functionality for most applications.

Each pair of Declan boots is handcrafted in Brazil through a 153-step process performed by 14 master cobblers. The construction includes a heel composed of four pieces of leather stacked together, providing both durability and a traditional aesthetic.

The upper is crafted from full-grain Balthazar leather, which represents the highest quality grade of leather as it retains the complete natural grain pattern. Full-grain leather is sourced from the outermost layer of the hide and develops a distinctive patina over time. The interior features full black leather lining throughout the boot.

The boot incorporates HELM Boots' signature white composite rubber midsole, which provides cushioning and shock absorption. A cushioned insole offers additional step-in comfort immediately upon wearing, reducing the typical break-in period associated with leather boots.

The Declan is built on the 415 last, which features a slightly rounded toe shape that is more tapered than the company's 323 last. The last is available in both D width (standard) and EE width (wide) to accommodate different foot shapes. The manufacturer recommends sizing down if between sizes, as the boot fits true to size for most wearers.

Each pair weighs approximately 1.5 pounds, which falls within the typical range for dress-oriented chukka boots. The lower shaft height combined with minimal lacing makes the tongue more pliable when new, contributing to the reduced break-in period.

The Declan features the Fineline sole, a hybrid construction that combines water-resistant leather with a textured rubber panel. From the side profile, the sole reads as a traditional leather outsole, maintaining a sleek appearance appropriate for dressier occasions. The underside incorporates poured rubber for additional traction and grip, providing practical functionality without sacrificing aesthetic refinement.

This dual-material construction offers increased durability compared to leather-only soles while maintaining the visual characteristics that distinguish dress boots from work boots. The rubber panel is strategically placed to maximize traction in high-wear areas.

The chukka boot style traces its origins to military footwear designed for desert environments. The minimal eyelet configuration—typically two or three pairs—was developed for easy lacing and quick removal in hot climates. The shorter shaft height compared to standard military boots provided increased comfort and breathability in desert heat while maintaining ankle support for uneven terrain.

The term "chukka" itself derives from the game of polo, where it refers to a period of play. The boot style became associated with British military officers stationed in desert regions during the mid-20th century and subsequently entered civilian fashion.