The Wilson

The Wilson takes its name from Broc Wilson, who served as HELM's Director of Operations for more than eight years. The loafer represents HELM's interpretation of the classic slip-on style, combining elements from multiple footwear categories including traditional loafers, boat shoes, and slippers. The design emphasizes versatility, allowing the shoe to transition between casual wear with denim and formal contexts with tailored clothing.

The Wilson employs Blake Rapid stitch construction, a method invented in 1856 by Lyman Reed Blake. The construction process involves stitching the midsole through the innersole on the interior of the shoe, then using a rapid machine to stitch the outsole to the midsole along the outside edge. This approach creates a streamlined welt seam with a nearly flush appearance, preferred by Italian shoemakers for its enhanced flexibility and comfort compared to Goodyear welting.

Blake Rapid construction requires worker-operated machinery for the interior stitching precision, distinguishing HELM's handcrafted approach from fully automated manufacturing. The method uses fewer leather layers than Goodyear welted construction, providing greater flexibility while maintaining resoleable capability. HELM partners with NuShoe for professional resole services. The company selected Blake Rapid construction for its renewable construction characteristics, tailored seam aesthetic, and increased flexibility.

The shoe weighs one pound and is built on the 432 last with HELM's signature white composite rubber midsole visible between the upper and the Denver rubber outsole with stacked leather heel. HELM's production process for the Wilson involves 153 individual steps performed by 14 master cobblers in Brazil.

The Wilson is produced in two distinct material categories. Leather versions use Krumenauer leather, available in Teak, Black, Brown, and Burgundy finishes. All leather versions feature full leather lining, with the Burgundy variant using black leather lining rather than the natural leather lining found in other colorways.

Suede versions utilize water-resistant Rusan suede in two variants: Tan colorway with supple Rusan suede, and Sienna version with waxed Rusan suede for additional water resistance. Both suede variants maintain the same construction methods and sole components as the leather versions. Each pair includes a proprietary sock liner design specific to HELM's footwear.

HELM sources premium full-grain side cow leather from select tanneries, exclusively using cowhide for its superior thickness and durability compared to steer leather. The company obtains Chromexcel and other premium leathers from Horween in Chicago, while sourcing Balthazar, Rockford, and Castello leathers from Bermudez Leather in the Dominican Republic.

The Wilson is produced in D width sizing from size six through 16, and EE width from size seven through 13. HELM recommends customers size down one half size if planning to wear the loafer with thin socks, no socks, or if positioned between standard sizes. The company offers free shipping on all United States domestic orders and accepts returns on unworn products within 30 days of purchase.

Pricing for the Wilson is $230 for all material and finish options. Customer reviews tracked by HELM's website show an aggregate rating of 4.71 out of 5.0 based on 69 reviews as of 2024.