Dark Olive Chromexcel is a specialty color variant of Chromexcel leather produced by Horween Leather Company in Chicago. This unique leather appears as a rich dark brown base color but reveals distinctive olive green undertones when flexed or creased due to the pull-up effect created during the hot stuffing manufacturing process.
The leather follows Horween's traditional 28-day, 89-step combination tanning process that has been used for over a century. Dark Olive Chromexcel is utilized by heritage footwear makers including John Lofgren Bootmaker, Grant Stone, and others for premium boots and shoes, offering both durability and the characteristic aging properties that Chromexcel is known for among heritage footwear enthusiasts.
Dark Olive Chromexcel derives its name from its distinctive pull-up effect rather than its resting appearance. In its natural state, the leather appears as a rich dark brown color. The "olive" designation comes from the olive green tones that emerge when the leather is flexed, bent, or creased.
This color transformation occurs due to the hot stuffing process where oils, waxes, and greases are impregnated into the leather fibers. When the leather is manipulated, these substances shift within the material, creating a tonal effect on the surface that reveals the characteristic olive undertones. The effect can be buffed out to restore the leather to its near-original dark brown appearance.
The aging characteristics of Dark Olive Chromexcel develop gradually through use, with the leather lightening in areas of frequent creasing and flexing while maintaining its depth of color in less-stressed areas.
Dark Olive Chromexcel undergoes the same comprehensive manufacturing process as other Chromexcel variants at Horween Leather Company's Chicago facility. The process takes 28 working days and involves at least 89 separate operations utilizing all five floors of the tannery.
The leather begins with chrome tanning using chrome salts to create the initial base tannage. This is followed by a proprietary vegetable retanning process using bark extracts and natural agents that Horween has developed over more than a century of operation.
The defining characteristic comes from the hot stuffing process, where the leather is impregnated with a proprietary blend of oils, waxes, and greases including food-grade beef tallow and cosmetic-grade beeswax. This hot stuffing creates the pull-up effect and contributes to the leather's comfort, durability, and aging properties.
The final steps involve several hand-rubbed coats of aniline finish and a coating of Neatsfoot Oil, giving the leather its characteristic feel and appearance while maintaining the natural grain patterns.
Dark Olive Chromexcel is available in multiple weight options to suit different applications. Standard weight options include 3.5-4 oz (1.4-1.6mm), 4.5-5 oz (1.8-2.0mm), 6-7 oz (2.4-2.8mm), and 8-9 oz (3.2-3.6mm).
The leather is chrome tanned with a semi-soft firmness rating and features an unfinished smooth back side typical of Chromexcel varieties. The leather is hot-stuffed with oils and greases and hand-stained to achieve the Dark Olive color designation.
The combination tanning process creates leather that is known for its natural grain, rich pull-up effect, and gentle softness while maintaining superior comfort and durability. The leather is resistant to hardening and salt stains due to its oil and wax content.
Several established heritage footwear manufacturers utilize Dark Olive Chromexcel in their premium boot offerings. John Lofgren Bootmaker produces Moc Toe Boots, Combat Boots, and Chelsea Boots in Dark Olive Chromexcel, featuring Goodyear welted construction with USA-made storm welts, Japanese-made steel shanks, and USA-made Vibram 700 cork soles and 7335 cork heels.
Grant Stone offers the Edward Boot in Dark Olive Chromexcel, showcasing the Chicago-tanned leather with its natural oils and waxes that create the unmistakable pull-up effect. These boots emphasize the leather's superior comfort and durability characteristics.
The construction methods used with Dark Olive Chromexcel typically include real leather mid-soles and real cork filler rather than synthetic alternatives, maintaining traditional heritage construction standards. The leather's properties make it suitable for both utilitarian and dress boot applications where durability and aging characteristics are desired.
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"Edward Boot Dark Olive Chromexcel". Grant Stone. Retrieved September 5, 2025.
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