Horween Charcoal Cypress

Leather Color • exclusive for Nicks

About

Charcoal Cypress is an exclusive colorway of Horween Cypress leather produced specifically for Nicks Handmade Boots through a special collaboration with the Horween Leather Company. This limited-run leather features a distinctive charcoal gray finish applied to Horween's combination-tanned Cypress base, creating a sophisticated and unique leather option with exceptional patina development potential.

The leather maintains all the characteristic properties of Horween's Cypress tanning process, including the combination of chrome and vegetable tanning with different vegetable tannins than those used in Chromexcel. The charcoal colorway provides a dark gray finish that offers an alternative to traditional black and brown leather options while preserving the aging characteristics and durability that define the Cypress line. This exclusive partnership demonstrates the ongoing collaboration between premium boot makers and Horween's custom tanning capabilities.

Charcoal Cypress is produced at 6-7 ounce weight, providing the substantial feel required for heritage boot construction while maintaining the flexibility and comfort characteristics of the Cypress tanning process. The limited availability of this leather, with material sufficient for only 150 pairs, makes it a sought-after option for collectors and enthusiasts who value both exclusivity and exceptional leather quality.

Manufacturing and Production

Charcoal Cypress follows the same combination tanning process as other Cypress variants, beginning with chrome tanning for durability and suppleness, followed by a heavy vegetable retannage using proprietary bark extracts that distinguish Cypress from other Horween leathers. The charcoal color is achieved through careful dye application during the finishing process, creating a sophisticated dark gray tone that maintains the leather's natural grain characteristics.

The manufacturing process includes the characteristic fat liquoring stage where oils and waxes suspended in water are absorbed into the leather, followed by finishing with stains and topical wax coats that are ironed into the surface. The mechanical drying process creates the compact structure that gives Cypress its substantial feel while maintaining the flexibility needed for comfortable footwear construction.

As an exclusive production run for Nicks Handmade Boots, the Charcoal Cypress represents a collaboration between the boot maker's specifications and Horween's tanning expertise. The limited production quantity of 150 pairs worth of leather reflects both the exclusive nature of the partnership and the specialized attention required to achieve the specific charcoal coloration while maintaining the leather's performance characteristics.

Characteristics

Charcoal Cypress exhibits the same fundamental characteristics as other Cypress variants while presenting a unique color profile that sets it apart from traditional leather options. The charcoal gray finish provides a sophisticated alternative to black leather while maintaining more character development potential than fully finished black leathers. The combination tanning process ensures excellent pull-up properties where oils and waxes redistribute under mechanical stress, creating dynamic color variations.

The leather maintains the exceptional patina development potential characteristic of Cypress leathers, with the vegetable retanning component enabling the leather to evolve and develop character through wear. The charcoal base color provides a neutral foundation that can develop rich, complex tones through oxidation and handling, while the oils and waxes integrated during processing contribute to the leather's ability to show attractive wear patterns.

At 6-7 ounce weight, Charcoal Cypress offers substantial feel without excessive stiffness, providing the durability required for heritage boot construction while allowing for reasonable break-in periods. The combination tanning gives the leather the patina development and character of vegetable-tanned leather while avoiding the excessive stiffness associated with traditional full vegetable tanning.

Applications

Charcoal Cypress is exclusively available through Nicks Handmade Boots, where it is used for premium heritage boot construction that showcases the leather's unique characteristics and aging potential. The leather's substantial weight makes it ideal for work boots and service boots where durability is paramount, while the sophisticated charcoal color provides versatility for both professional and casual applications.

The limited production run creates exclusivity that appeals to boot enthusiasts and collectors who value unique leather options that cannot be found elsewhere in the market. Nicks Handmade Boots utilizes the leather in their custom configuration options, allowing customers to specify Charcoal Cypress for their made-to-order boots when material is available.

The leather's combination of durability, character development potential, and unique color makes it particularly suitable for customers seeking boots that will develop distinctive personality through regular wear while maintaining professional appearance. The exclusive nature of the leather means that boots made from Charcoal Cypress represent both functional footwear and collectible items within the heritage boot community.

Care and Maintenance

Charcoal Cypress requires the same care approach as other Cypress leathers, with minimal maintenance needed due to its oil and wax content from the combination tanning and finishing processes. The charcoal color may show wear patterns and patina development more readily than darker colors, but these characteristics are part of the leather's intended evolution and add to its distinctive character.

Regular conditioning helps maintain the leather's flexibility and can enhance the patina development process, while the pull-up characteristics allow minor scuffs and handling marks to integrate naturally into the leather's evolving appearance. The combination tanning provides inherent resilience that reduces the need for intensive maintenance while allowing the leather to develop attractive aging characteristics through regular use.

The exclusive nature of the leather means that proper care becomes particularly important for preserving the investment in this limited-availability material. However, the robust characteristics of the Cypress tanning process ensure that the leather can withstand regular use while developing the character that makes it valuable to boot enthusiasts and collectors.

References

  • 1.

    "Cypress Charcoal - Limited Run!". Nicks Handmade Boots. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 2.

    "Horween Cypress Leather". The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Nicks MTO in Horween Charcoal Cypress". Patina Project. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 4.

    "Heritage Leather Page". Nicks Handmade Boots. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

  • 5.

    "The Tanning Process: A look inside the Horween Leather Company". The Tannery Row. Retrieved September 5, 2025.

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