John Lobb

The company's reputation rests on meticulous handcraftsmanship, with each bespoke pair requiring multiple fittings and hundreds of individual operations performed by master craftsmen. John Lobb footwear exemplifies traditional British shoemaking at its finest, maintaining techniques and quality standards established in the Victorian era.

John Lobb was born in Cornwall, England, where a childhood injury left him lame. Despite being rejected by major London shoemakers due to his disability, Lobb maintained his ambition to become a master bootmaker. During the Australian gold rush, he traveled to Australia and established himself in a small tent, producing innovative boots designed specifically for gold prospectors working in challenging conditions.

Lobb's Australian venture proved successful, establishing his reputation for practical, durable footwear. In 1862, he produced a pair of polished leather riding boots that won the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition, bringing international recognition to his work. This success enabled him to return to London, where he opened a shop in 1866, fulfilling his original ambition to establish himself in the capital.

The company gained royal patronage when Lobb produced riding boots for the Prince of Wales of such exceptional quality that he was awarded the firm's first Royal Warrant. This royal endorsement established John Lobb as a maker to the aristocracy and elevated his reputation among the British upper classes.

In 1901, William Lobb, John's son, opened a shop in Paris, strategically located near the British Embassy to serve diplomatic and expatriate clientele. The Paris workshop quickly established its own reputation, developing a distinct aesthetic while maintaining the quality standards of the London operation.

The Paris and London operations remained united until 1976, when John Lobb Paris was acquired by the Hermès Group, creating two separate corporate entities sharing a common heritage. This division created two distinct interpretations of the John Lobb legacy: London remained exclusively focused on bespoke shoemaking, while Paris expanded into ready-to-wear collections while maintaining its bespoke service.

The split resulted in subtle but significant differences in design philosophy and product offerings between the two houses, each serving different market segments while upholding the John Lobb name and commitment to craftsmanship.

John Lobb Ltd continues to operate as an independent family business from its historic premises at 9 St James's Street in London's St James's district, the traditional heart of British bespoke tailoring and shoemaking. The London workshop produces exclusively bespoke footwear, maintaining traditional British shoemaking methods and aesthetics.

Bespoke shoes from London are characterized by traditional British styling emphasizing classic forms, restrained ornamentation, and time-honored construction techniques. Each pair requires extensive individual fitting sessions, pattern development, and hand construction by master craftsmen who have often completed multi-year apprenticeships in the craft.

The London workshop maintains the traditional bespoke process, which includes multiple fitting sessions, the creation of individual wooden lasts specific to each customer's feet, and extensive handwork throughout construction. This process typically requires several months from initial consultation to delivery, with each pair representing hundreds of hours of skilled labor.

Following its acquisition by Hermès in 1976, John Lobb Paris has operated as part of the luxury conglomerate while maintaining its shoemaking traditions. The Paris operation produces both bespoke footwear and ready-to-wear collections, with the ready-to-wear line debuting in 1982 and the first dedicated store opening in 1990.

John Lobb Paris bespoke shoes are described as more sophisticated and daring than their London counterparts, reflecting French aesthetic sensibilities while maintaining traditional construction quality. The Paris workshop has developed its own design language, incorporating elements of French elegance and willingness to experiment with forms and details while respecting classical foundations.

The ready-to-wear collection has expanded John Lobb's reach beyond the limited clientele able to afford bespoke footwear, offering machine-assisted construction with hand-finishing to maintain quality while achieving economies of scale. These shoes, while not fully bespoke, incorporate many traditional techniques and represent high-end production shoemaking.

Both John Lobb entities employ traditional Goodyear welt and hand-welted construction methods, depending on the specific shoe and customer requirements. Hand-welted construction, considered the pinnacle of shoemaking technique, involves sewing the upper, insole, and welt entirely by hand, creating exceptional flexibility and durability while allowing the shoe to conform precisely to the wearer's foot over time.

Bespoke John Lobb shoes utilize wooden lasts carved specifically for each customer, capturing individual foot characteristics including length, width, instep height, and any asymmetries or particular requirements. These lasts remain in the company's archives, allowing for future orders without additional fitting sessions.

The construction process incorporates traditional techniques including hand-lasted uppers, cork footbeds that mold to the wearer's foot, and multiple layers of leather in the sole construction. Finishing processes include hand-burnishing edges, polishing, and final inspection to ensure each pair meets exacting standards before delivery.

John Lobb has maintained its position as a supplier to royalty and distinguished clients for over 150 years. The company holds Royal Warrants and has shod monarchs, statesmen, and cultural figures across generations. This heritage represents continuity of craftsmanship standards and the preservation of traditional techniques that might otherwise have disappeared.

The brand's reputation extends beyond functional footwear to represent a particular vision of British (and French) luxury rooted in craftsmanship, tradition, and understated elegance. John Lobb shoes represent an investment in quality and longevity, with properly maintained bespoke pairs capable of lasting decades through periodic resoling and refurbishment.