Monkey Boots

John Lofgren's interpretation of the monkey boot features Goodyear welt construction, premium horsebutt leather from Japan's Shinki Hikaku tannery, and USA-made Vibram soles. The boots are built on the company's 140 last and exemplify the brand's commitment to reproducing vintage American work boot styles with Japanese manufacturing techniques.

John Lofgren Monkey Boots employ Goodyear welt construction using USA-made storm welts, a method that provides durability and allows for resoling. The construction includes single, double, and triple stitching throughout, with Japanese-made steel shanks providing structural support. The boots feature a 1-3/8 inch stacked heel and six-inch shaft height, with an embossed padded leather heel pad for comfort.

The uppers are constructed from premium horsebutt leather sourced from the Shinki Hikaku tannery in Japan, a specialized horsehide leather producer. This leather preserves the natural character of the hide, including authentic marks such as bug bites or scratches. Alternative models are available using Horween Cavalier leather from the United States. The construction includes rolled leather lined tops with unlined uppers, and oak bark tanned heavy midsoles.

Hardware consists of Japanese brass eyelets and speed hooks, with six eyelets and four speed hooks per boot. The outsoles are USA-made Vibram 700 cork soles with 7335 cork heels, providing traction and durability. Heavy duty laces are included with the boots.

The Monkey Boots are built on John Lofgren's 140 last and are available only in standard E width. The last runs large, and the manufacturer recommends sizing down one full size from standard US sneaker size or Brannock measurement. The fit is similar to Viberg service boots, with a John Lofgren size US9 equivalent to a Viberg size 9.

For customers with wide feet, the recommendation is to go down half a size rather than a full size. The boots initially may feel slightly stiff due to the horsebutt leather construction, but the material quickly molds to the foot for improved comfort.

The monkey boot design traces its origins to Czech military footwear, likely from the pre-World War II period. The style gained cultural significance in the 1960s when it became associated with the British mod subculture. The name "monkey boot" possibly derives from the distinctive tractor-tire-tread sole pattern, which was said to provide enough grip to "climb like a monkey."

In the United States, lace-to-toe boot styles are traditionally associated with workers such as linemen and roofers, while in Europe, they maintain stronger connections to military heritage. John Lofgren's version represents a faithful reproduction of these historical designs while incorporating modern comfort features and contemporary construction materials.

The design reflects John Lofgren Bootmaker's overall philosophy of creating vintage-inspired footwear that surpasses the quality of original historical pieces. The company's founder, originally from California, moved to Japan where he established his reputation for producing authentic reproductions of American work boot styles using Japanese craftsmanship traditions known as "Shokuninkishitsu" - the craftsman mentality characterized by pride, dedication, and relentless pursuit of perfection.

John Lofgren Monkey Boots are available through authorized retailers with pricing typically ranging from $700 to $1,136 depending on the specific model and leather choice. The Shinki Hikaku horsebutt models command higher prices due to the premium nature of the leather. As of 2025, the boots are available for pre-order with delivery scheduled for December 2025, reflecting the limited production runs and high demand for the brand's products.

Some colorways, including black and whiskey cavalier, periodically sell out at retailers, emphasizing the exclusive nature of the production. The extended delivery times and limited availability are characteristic of small-batch Japanese manufacturing, where each pair is handcrafted by master artisans rather than mass-produced.