USN Low Quarter Shoes

USN Low Quarter Shoes

Model

About

The USN Low Quarter Shoes are military-inspired dress shoes manufactured by John Lofgren Bootmaker. Based on regulation footwear originally issued to US Navy officers in 1941, these shoes follow authentic World War II specifications while incorporating modern Japanese craftsmanship and premium materials.

Built on John Lofgren's 140 last, the shoes feature a classic blucher pattern with plain toe design, staying true to the minimalist aesthetic of the original military footwear. The model LK-029 uses French calfskin finished in Japan and Goodyear welted construction, representing John Lofgren's approach of combining historical accuracy with contemporary quality standards for heritage footwear enthusiasts.

History

The USN Low Quarter Shoes trace their origins to 1941, when the khaki uniform was approved for officers in all branches of the US Navy and the plain low quarter shoe became the standard footwear for wear with the uniform. Regulation US Navy shoes were made in black or brown chrome calfskin, had a Goodyear welt leather sole, a plain toe, and followed a classic blucher pattern.

During World War II, these shoes were issued to USN and USMC officers as part of their standard military equipment. Officers wore brown or black shoes with the khaki uniform, with color choice varying by regulation period. The original specifications emphasized durability and functionality while maintaining the professional appearance required for military dress.

John Lofgren's recreation follows the same construction guidelines as the original WWII-era shoes, maintaining the authentic military heritage while meeting modern quality expectations for heritage footwear collectors and enthusiasts.

Design and Construction

The USN Low Quarter Shoes follow a minimalist blucher pattern with a sleek plain toe and virtually no embellishments, staying faithful to the original military design. Built on John Lofgren's 140 last in E width, the shoes maintain the proportions and fit characteristics intended for the original specifications.

Construction features include double and triple stitched sewing with Japanese steel shanks for structural integrity. The shoes use premium French calfskin that has been finished in Japan, while the interior is lined with Japanese cowhide for comfort and durability.

The Goodyear welted construction utilizes Japan-made flat welts, ensuring the shoes are fully rebuildable for extended wear. Components include US-made Quabaug heels and Italian Vibram half soles, combining international expertise in heritage footwear manufacturing. All assembly and finishing work is exclusively performed in Japan by John Lofgren craftspeople.

The shoes are available in two authentic colorways: black and russet brown French calfskin, both matching the original military color options specified in 1941 Navy regulations.

Sizing and Fit

The USN Low Quarter Shoes are built on John Lofgren's 140 last, the same last used for the John Lofgren Monkey Boots. However, the different lacing configuration combined with the relative stiffness of calfskin compared to other leathers causes these shoes to fit approximately 0.5 size smaller than the Monkey Boots despite sharing the same last.

The 140 last runs large, with most retailers recommending 0.5 size down from a standard Brannock device measurement. Some retailers recommend sizing down one full size from Brannock measurement, particularly for those with narrow feet or lower instep. For reference, the sizing typically corresponds to the same size as Red Wing Iron Ranger or Alden Barrie last, and 0.5 size larger than Viberg 2030 last.

Given the variation in sizing recommendations among retailers, potential buyers are advised to consult with specific retailers about their sizing guidance, as recommendations may account for different foot shapes and width preferences.

Availability

The USN Low Quarter Shoes are currently available through pre-order from John Lofgren Bootmaker and authorized retailers. Production timeframes range from three to 10 months due to the handmade manufacturing process and material availability constraints.

Authorized retailers include Blue Owl Workshop, Brooklyn Clothing, Standard & Strange, Lost & Found, and other heritage footwear specialists. Each retailer may have different inventory schedules and sizing guidance based on their customer base and ordering patterns.

International shipping from John Lofgren's direct sales is $30 for orders under $150 and $60 for orders over $150. Production times vary based on manufacturing capacity and the availability of premium materials sourced from multiple countries.

References

  • 1.

    "USN Low Quarter Shoes Collection". John Lofgren Bootmaker. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 2.

    "USN Low Quarter Shoes Russet Brown Calfskin". Standard & Strange. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 3.

    "Service Shoes Type I and II Specification QMC 9-6F". USWW2 Uniforms. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 4.

    "United States Navy Uniform Regulations 1941". US Department of Defense. May 31, 2018.

  • 5.

    "USN Low Quarter Shoes Black Calfskin". Standard & Strange. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 6.

    "LK-029 USN Low Quarter Shoes French Calf Black". Brooklyn Clothing. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 7.
  • 8.

    "John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes Calfskin Russet Brown". Freenote Cloth. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 9.

    "Uniforms of the U.S. Navy 1942-1943". Naval History and Heritage Command. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 10.

    "John Lofgren Bootmaker". John Lofgren Bootmaker. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

  • 11.

    "John Lofgren Collection". Blue Owl Workshop. Retrieved September 8, 2025.

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    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
    John Lofgren USN Low Quarter Shoes in Unknown Leather
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