Brawler

The shoe employs the 150-year-old Goodyear welt construction method, creating weatherproof footwear suitable for year-round wear while maintaining the repairability and longevity characteristic of welted construction. Lennertson positions the Brawler as "rugged refined" footwear combining durability with understated design suitable for city environments.

The Brawler uses Goodyear welt construction throughout, a method involving more than 100 individual steps combining handwork with specialized machinery. The construction process stitches the upper to a leather welt and sole rather than using adhesive bonding, allowing for complete resoling while creating a weatherproof seal between components.

Internal construction includes full leather lining providing moisture wicking and breathability, leather insole and midsole, cork filler conforming to individual foot shape over time, and steel shank reinforcement. The outsole varies by model specification, with options including commando rubber, natural crepe, flat studded rubber called "Cobblestone Killers," and double leather soles.

The construction requires an initial break-in period of approximately 8 walking hours, during which the cork footbed compresses and leather components soften. The shoes feel rigid immediately after purchase but develop increased comfort through wear as materials conform to the wearer's foot shape.

Lennertson built the Brawler on the Michael Last, a proprietary last shape developed over nearly three years in collaboration with Michael James, master last maker from the Springline company in Northampton, England. The last features a rounded toe box, slightly increased width compared to dress shoe standards, and medium arch support.

The last design prioritizes comfort across varied foot shapes and body types while maintaining refined proportions suitable for dress shoe applications. Lennertson reports positive fit feedback from customers across different heights, weights, and foot dimensions, suggesting the last accommodates variation beyond typical dress shoe specifications.

The Brawler releases in several leather specifications, each paired with coordinating welt and sole combinations:

Black Calf Leather features smooth full-grain calfskin with open grain structure, finished with a contrasting raw leather welt. This version provides traditional dress shoe aesthetics with visual interest from the natural welt color contrast.

Seaweed Vintage Calf uses oiled vintage calf leather from the Viviani tannery in Croatia, presenting a muted green tone with natural surface texture and subtle variation. The leather pairs with a dark brown antique welt, and the oiled finish develops patina through wear and exposure.

Truffle Waxed Leather offers a greyish dark brown base color displaying greenish or reddish undertones depending on lighting conditions. The waxed finish provides weather resistance and a distinctive appearance that shifts with viewing angle.

Umber Brown employs oiled pull-up leather developing deep patina effects from flexing and wear, creating lighter creases and darker base color. This version includes a raw leather welt and commando sole for increased weather capability.

Biscotto Suede sources suede from the Oehler tannery in Germany, finished in a tan-brown shade Lennertson markets as a summertime variation. The suede version pairs with a natural crepe sole creating softer visual weight compared to rubber-soled variants.

The Brawler ranges from UK size 5 to 13, corresponding to EU sizes 39 through 47 and US sizes 6 through 14. Lennertson recommends sizing down from typical sneaker sizes, reflecting the last's generous width and the leather's break-in expansion.

The initial fit feels firm through the 8-hour break-in period as the cork footbed compresses and leather stretches. After break-in, the shoes conform to individual foot shape while the Goodyear welt construction maintains structural support and weather resistance.

Portuguese craftspeople manufacture the Brawler in a family-owned factory where workers have developed expertise over multiple generations. Production occurs within the European Union, ensuring adherence to EU labor standards and environmental regulations governing leather tanneries.

Lennertson sources leather from established European tanneries including Viviani in Croatia and Oehler in Germany, supporting traditional tannery operations while accessing materials meeting EU environmental and quality standards. All leather derives from meat industry byproducts rather than hides from animals raised specifically for leather production.